Refinishing Hardwood Floors {apartment progress}

Posted on October 29, 2012 by Roeshel

How I refinished the apartment hardwood floors…

When we started the apartment renovation, I knew the hardwood floors would need to be refinished. Previous tenants had some sort of mishap and the finish was ruined…{I try not to think long and hard about the details of the mishap. ::shudder::}

condition of hardwood floors before:

We started by sanding the floors (well, by “we” I really mean, I supervised while my nephew controlled the beast known as the orbital sander). Once the steps to strip the old finish was completed and floors and sawdust were cleaned up, we were ready to refinish the original hardwood for a new look.

All sanded!

I headed to True Value for the materials I needed {and a few other things too but more coming on that soon}:

Minwax Wood Finish, stirred not shaken {Color is “Dark Walnut”}. Minwax has great informational guide too.
Minwax High Build Polyurethane (clear satin), stirred not shaken (martini is optional)
FrogTape
angled 3.5″ Purdy paintbrushes – “White Bristle” {recommended for stain}
angled 3 ” Purdy brush – “Black China Bristle” for polyurethane
old clean rags {I actually had these on hand but you CAN buy them at True Value too!}
Optional: latex gloves {I lived with brown stained nails for a day or two…oops.}
Suggestion: pillow for knees and definitely old clothes {not sold at True Value}
220 grit sandpaper
Mineral spirits and clean rags

Staining Hardwood Floors

The process is a fairly simple DIY. The task is just time consuming (and a little labor intensive because of my position on ‘old knees’). Since I was working with two small rooms, I opted to use a brush and work on my hands and knees vs. a roller.

I started in a far corner of the room, working with the wood grain, with the direction of the wood planks, working my way out of the room – don’t work yourself into a corner – no fun being trapped!

For extra protection, tape off baseboards/shoe molding using FrogTape.

I dipped my Purdy brush into the can of Minwax stain, tapped off the extra and applied the stain in a corner, working along the baseboard along the length of the wood plank. When I noticed that some of the stain wasn’t absorbing, I let it sit for a few minutes then wiped away the excess with an old rag.

I worked in 2-4 foot sections in length as I went along right to left in my room, working my way towards the door. Sometimes I did a larger number of planks as well, just find a rhythm that works for you.

Bedroom done. I worked my way out into the hallway…

down the stairs and around the bend…

and started the main floor in a corner, working my way out the door.

Sounds like I ended up at Grandmother’s place (over the river and through the woods) and a lot quicker than it actually took. !

TIPS: Since I’m working my way actually out of the apartment, I had to make sure to grab things I needed like purse, keys, cell phone, etc. Turn off things that you don’t want to leave on during the drying period. The radio blasted during our drying time. Oops!

Note: Two coats can be applied (see Minwax for further instructions). I loved the color one coat achieved so I skipped this step. Sealing the floor will also darken the color a bit. One coat of stain:

I let my floors dry a few days but we were working in an unoccupied space. I applied the stain on a Friday and returned the following week to resume refinishing by sealing the floors. Sealing the floors is NOT optional, it’s required. It’s necessary. Stain does not protect the wood, only colors/enhances the beauty.

Sealing the floors…

I used the same process as above to seal the floors. Starting in the far corner of the room, I repeated the same steps of dipping my paint brush into the polyurethane, tapping, applying in the corner, brushing right to left (the direction I was personally working), along the baseboards and working my way out the door.

It really enhances the rich beautiful color:

I let the first coat of polyurethane dry 48 hours.

My most UN-favorite part: once the first coat is dry, lightly sand the entire floor with a 220 grit sandpaper. Clean floors of dust with mineral spirits and let dry. Then apply a second coat of polyurethane using the same steps. Repetitive. Time consuming. But so rewarding!

Allow to dry for 12 hours to resume “light use” (however – test the floor first!). Remove FrogTape.

Stand back, remember the before (try not to gag):

Admire the gorgeous after:

apartment sneak peek alert!

Pinterest tip: Did you know that if you rub a wood scratch (floors and furniture) with a walnut (circular motions, filling in the scratch), the walnut oils will fill in the scratch and heal the wood wound? Great snack, too!

Estimated total cost of DIY refinishing 2 small rooms of hardwood (approx. 250 sq. feet) = $250.00 and a few days of recovery…but nothing that would keep you out of your True Value hardware store to prepare for your next DIY. 😉

Joining Sarah’s party today:

We were chosen by True Value to be one of the members of the 2012 DIY Squad. I have been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY projects. However, the thoughts and opinions expressed are completely honest and my own. I have not been paid to publish positive comments and no one has twisted my arm to participate.

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience.

Special Announcement and Our Next DIY Challenge

Posted on June 28, 2012 by Roeshel

I can’t wait any more to share the news!

For the past two years, I’ve been honored and super excited to be a part of the True Value DIY Blog Squad. We’ve completed some fun True Value DIY projects in the past.

TRUE VALUE 2012 DIY BLOG SQUAD

We were so surprised when we were asked to participate again in 2012 and there may have been some big smiles and high fives. We humbly accepted because of this…

(scraping and painting the exterior is in the works)

Side note: True Value Blog Squad is bittersweet for me. Niski was a part of our team that first year and I just miss her soooo much. 🙁

We’ll have to motivate lazy Lalka to be a part of the team this year.

Our plans include giving a tiny fixer upper one bedroom apartment (we’re the owners) a little fixing up and some cosmetic surgery here and there. We’re up for the challenge of making the most of this small space on a small budget and can’t wait to share the transformation with you.

Inside is teeny tiny and dingy/dirty. Previous tenant was there for years and years and it’s now been empty for quite a few years. It’s pretty dirty and run down. It only has 4 rooms – a small combined living room, kitchen, dining area

and a small bedroom and bathroom upstairs.

Do you see past the dirt to the potential? It’s darling! The goal is a fresh and pretty transformation with a little DIY magic in this cozy little home.

We’ll be sharing some of the DIY home improvement projects very soon along with some awesome giveaways! Here are the ways you can stay up-to-date with the entire True Value Blog Squad so you don’t miss a thing:

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/truevalue
Twitter: http://twitter.com/truevalue
Pinterest: http://pinterest.com/truevalue/
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/truevaluehardware
TrueValue.com (shop True Value online): http://www.truevalue.com/
StartRightStartHere.com (features maintenance and repair, paint and lawn and garden project tips): http://www.startrightstarthere.com/
TrueValuePaint.com (provides paint-specific tips and trends):http://www.truevaluepaint.com/

Any ideas for that little apartment (besides lots of cleaning and painting)? I can’t wait to get started on redoing those hardwood floors too. Love the wainscoting and those little curved stairs. If you had a completely clean slate with a big green light and super small budget, where would you start?

DIY Project Parade ~ DIY Pipe Curtain Rod Tutorial

Posted on December 31, 2011 by Roeshel

HAPPY NEW YEAR, DIY SHOW OFF FRIENDS! 2011 was awesome and wishing you an even better 2012. Welcome to the First DIY Project Parade of 2012!

12 foot curtain rods are expensive! I love the look of our new affordable DIY curtain rod made from pipe and fittings:

I knew True Value would stock the materials I needed:
2 – 6′ galvanized steel pipes (True Value will cut/thread the ends to any size)
3 galvanized 1/2″ flanges
3 galvanized 1/2″ tee fittings
3 1/2″ connectors {nipples}

Parts:

Drywall screws

2 finials and 1 wine cork

Tools:
Stud finder
Drill
Screw driver
Level

I gave all of my pieces a coat of Krylon‘s hammered metal:

1. Find and mark studs. Measure/mark the height you’d like the curtain rod to hang (not my hairy arm!).

2. Attach “tee” to flange using nipple. Do this for all three pieces.

3. and 4. Slide on curtain rings onto pipe at this stage. Tip: Keep curtain rings clipped to plastic casing they came with or clipped to index card or piece of cardboard to help keep them in place during installation (not shown). Attach two flange sets to the ends of a pipe.

5. Hold pipe with flanges on each end up to the wall, mark holes for screws (use a level to make sure rod hangs straight) by starting a hole with a spade bit or nail (hammer lightly).

6. Four screws to each flange.

7. Attach last flange set to remaining pipe.

8. Slide on more curtain rings (I use 7 for each curtain panel).

9. Screw one end of pipe into the tee that’s secured to the wall.

10. Twist flange so it’s flush to the wall.

Note: The installation process will scuff your walls…you’ll need to touch up.

11. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for the other end.

12. Choose 2 finials that fit in your space and match your style. I spray painted mine to match the pipes.

13. Cut a piece of a wine cork in half.

14. Shave down the sides. (Make 2 pieces, one for each end of the pipe.)

15. Push a piece of the cork into the end of the pipe.

16. Screw the finial into place into the cork.

Done and ready for curtains!

I love the industrial look. {No Sew Drop Cloth Script Curtain Tutorial here}

More photos of the sitting room “Christmas un-decorated” coming up! 🙂

Let’s see what you’ve been up to!

1. You must use the button above (ADD BUTTON HTML CODE FROM SIDE BAR TO YOUR POST) and link to this post to share the linky love. You post must be recent, shared at one DIY Project Parade only (not continuously) and be DIY related.

2.Include your name or blog name and project title. Add your permalink (not your blog url, but your DIY project post url). Feel free to link a Past Post, just invite your readers in a current post with a quick note.

3.Or email your link to thediyshowoff@gmail.com and I will add it for you.

4.If you notice your link has disappeared -please add the link back to The DIY Show Off to your post today, a button or a quick note to your readers about the party and try again! I love when everyone participates and readers check out everyone’s links, but I think the return favor of linking back is the nice thing to do so everyone plays fair and enjoys all of the projects and links. Also – this blog party is for DIY projects only. Links not related to DIY will be deleted. Please share your link one week only.

5. If reading this in an email, pop over to https://diyshowoff.com to see the inspiring DIY projects linked up!

6. NOW you can “like” the links! What a fun idea! Most liked links may be included in a post of DIY Project Parade highlights later in the week.

7. Visit a few other links to make some new friends, get some creative ideas and feel free to leave me a comment. I’m likely sitting here on the computer and could use a happy distraction!

Don’t forget to come back Sunday evening and link up your 2011 DIY recap and my DIY year in review.

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I was one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. I have been compensated for my time commitment to the program as well as my writing about my experience. I have also been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY project. However, my opinions are entirely my own and I have not been paid to publish positive comments. FOLLOW TRUE VALUE ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER!~*~*~*~*~

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DIY Project Parade and DIY No Sew Script Drop Cloth Curtain Tutorial

Posted on December 26, 2011 by Roeshel

No Sew Drop Cloth Script Curtain Panel Tutorial

I wanted something different for our sitting room and the new DIY curtain rod. I love the idea of drop cloth curtains…affordable ($25 for a 9×12 drop cloth).

9×12 drop cloth for three 4′ panels

Sharpie Permanent Marker

I spread the drop cloth out on the dining room table.

I wanted 3 panels. My floor to ceiling height in the sitting room is 7 1/2 foot. I drew up a plan:

I made marks 18 inches (minus 1 1/2 feet) in from the bottom hem (laying out my drop cloth with 9 ft. being the height and 12 ft. being the length). The cut panels are the exact height from floor to ceiling (we’ll worry about exact correct length later…as long as they’re a little longer than needed, it’s all good.

*Tip: The drop cloth will be larger than table (if you have floor space to spread out – that’s great). Otherwise, working from one end, hold up fabric overlapping edge, measure and mark.

I cut from mark to mark. I heard using pinking sheers helps eliminate unraveling (myth as shown below).

*Tip: Large drop cloth is difficult to work with. Pull fabric towards you as you cut.

Next I cut 3 panels out of the 12 feet at 4 feet each. However: I don’t think the manufacturer thought anyone would actually measure a drop cloth, so I had two 48″ pieces and one 42″ piece. (Which is okay – these are decorative and it was okay for my middle curtain to be off a little…but take this into account if it matters for you!!!)

I did not hem cut edges – I like the frayed edge. Left curtain panel has an outer hem by manufacturer, inside is frayed. Middle has two frayed edges. Right panel is reverse of left with an outer hem, inner frayed. Top hem is sewn by the manufacturer.

I washed the panels on the hand wash cycle and dried on low.

As you can see, pinking sheers did not make a difference with fraying…

Unless this is decreased fraying?!

I pulled or cut away the strings. I like the frayed look once the tangled mess was gone.

Next I ironed the panels, using a high temp and steam.

I laid each panel out on the floor and using a yard stick, I made LIGHT pencil lines every six inches starting from the top.

I chose Robert Frost poems. They’re mostly nature related and short. I selected poems that were around 12 lines long. (Panels have 14 pencil lines: Poem title, poem and author’s name = 14 lines too! Perfect!)

Using a Sharpie, I just started copying and writing out the poems…judging/eyeballing whether I needed to write smaller or bigger or insert a symbol to make the lines fit on a line. Sometimes I went over and darkened certain words by tracing again with my Sharpie.)

I didn’t like the “B” at the beginning of one of my poems, so I made a patch of left over drop cloth and this is the only part I sewed – but I patched right over the ugly “B”. You might call it imperfection but I call it character. 🙂

When finished, I hung the curtains using curtain clips.

For the bottom hem, with the curtain hanging, push the bottom fabric to where the floor meets the wall. Draw a pencil line in that corner. Cut along the line with pinking sheers.

All done. Custom. Affordable and I love the look!!! How about you?

Let’s see what you’ve been up to!

3.Or email your link to thediyshowoff@gmail.com and I will add it for you.

5. If reading this in an email, pop over to http://thediyshowoff.blogspot.com to see the inspiring DIY projects linked up!

6. If you have a Holiday link to share, feel free to link up to here too!

7. NOW you can “like” the links! What a fun idea! Most liked links may be included in a post of DIY Project Parade highlights later in the week.

8. Visit a few other links to make some new friends, get some creative ideas and feel free to leave me a comment. I’m likely sitting here on the computer and could use a happy distraction!

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Sharing here this week:

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DIY Project Parade ~ Custom Chalkboard Paint Tutorial and Edging Tips

Posted on December 11, 2011 by Roeshel

I recently came across Christina’s chalkboard paint post from Designing by Numbers in the DIY Project Parade (thanks for the inspiration, Christina) and remembered that I had bookmarked Martha Stewart’s chalkboard recipe with grand plans that kept getting pushed back. So, the next day I headed to True Value for supplies. (The True Value in Sarver, PA has a ‘mascot’…the sweetest dog who greets customers at the door, with a roll of duct tape in his mouth. Adorable.)

Our basement stairwell is a blank canvas. Lots of plans, just needed to get started.

BEFORE

I wanted a navy chalkboard so custom chalkboard paint was the solution.

Color: Benjamin Moore Hale Navy

I started with having my primer tinted. Primer doesn’t really tint well, so the closest I could get was a bright periwinkle, but every little bit of pigment helps.

To make my project go quicker and because ceilings are high/scary and complicated, I use an edger.

The secret to using this little treasure is dipping it into the paint at angle, keeping the wheels out of the paint.

Then drag across up the ‘ramp’ of the paint tray to get off excess paint…

I “sneak up” on where the wall meets the ceiling and then move from side to side. (Don’t just smash down near the ceiling and start side to side.) I also ‘smooth’ out the bottom of the edged paint line to keep it from dripping/building up and making a visible line. So: touch the edger to the wall below where you’re going to run your edging, then come back and smooth the line made from the bottom of the edger.

For high up/hard to reach places, I added an extension and stood on a ladder at terrifying heights (remember to keep as little as possible paint towards the side of the edger with wheels)…

Once the primer is applied and dried, it’s time to move on to the next step.

The recipe calls for 2 tbsp. of non sand grout for every cup of latex paint. Here’s the conversion for making one gallon of chalkboard paint:

2 tbsp. for 1 cup

16 cups in a gallon

= 2 cups (32 tbsp.) of non sand grout in one gallon of paint

I used a 5 gallon bucket for mixing.

I alternated adding paint then a bit of grout (thanks to Christina for the tip). Then stirred. Repeat until all paint and grout are mixed.

I used a paint stir. Tilting the bucket helps get the grout/paint mixed that sticks to the sides of the bucket.

The consistency is thick. There are small clumps…keep stirring (a mixer-bit on the drill might be more helpful). I did have a few bumps…but we’re not picky. Most dissolved or smoothed out with a paint brush (a little bit of a pain but overall – it was worth it). If we were perfectionists, we wouldn’t have bought an old fixer-upper farmhouse! This wall will actually be partially covered up (future project) and then a couple of years down the road, it’s being torn out when we get to the big basement renovation. The solution is to lightly sand between coats.

Make sure you use a drop cloth and wear old clothes. Consistency is thick and splatters will occur. (Thankfully we have stairs waiting for slate tile…so although I was careful, it didn’t matter). A mask is preferable too. The fumes were on the strong side. Use same edging technique as mentioned above.

I used a foam roller for the larger/middle task of painting the wall.

Once I finished the wall, I put the lid on my bucket and my paint tray/roller in a baggy and let the wall paint dry overnight.

first coat, drying…

In progress but looking good!

Second day, second coat. Next…the hard part. Rub the entire wall with the side of a piece of chalk.

Then erase.

All set to accept chalk board writing!

More on our stairwell transformation coming up – you’ll never guess what we have planned.

Let’s see what you’ve been up to!

3.Or email your link to thediyshowoff@gmail.com and I will add it for you.

5. If reading this in an email, pop over to http://thediyshowoff.blogspot.com to see the inspiring DIY projects linked up!

6. If you have a Holiday link to share, feel free to link up to here too!

7. NOW you can “like” the links! What a fun idea! Most liked links may be included in a post of DIY Project Parade highlights later in the week.

8. Visit a few other links to make some new friends, get some creative ideas and feel free to leave me a comment. I’m likely sitting here on the computer and could use a happy distraction!

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12 Bloggers, 12 Colors, 12 Days

of Holiday DIY

Dec. 1st ~ GREEN ~ The Design Confidential

Dec. 2nd ~ WHITE ~ Domestically Speaking

Dec. 3rd ~ BLUE/PURPLE ~ Fireflies & JellyBeans

Dec. 4th ~ SILVER ~ Freckled Laundry

Dec. 5th ~ GRAY ~ Primitive & Proper

Dec. 6th ~ SPARKLE/GLITTER ~ A Girl and a Glue Gun

Dec. 7th ~ MIRROR/CLEAR ~ The DIY Show Off

Dec. 8th ~ EARTH TONES ~ Making the World Cuter

Dec. 9th ~ RED ~ It’s So Very Cheri

Dec. 10th ~ GOLD ~ 504 Main

Dec. 11th ~ CHALKBOARD

~ WhisperWood Cottage

Dec. 12th ~ MULTI-COLOR ~ The DIY Club

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DIY Show Off ™ – DIY Decorating and Home Improvement Blog

DIYShowOff – Budget Friendly Do-It-Yourself Home Improvement and Decorating blog

Category Archives: Blog Squad

Refinishing Hardwood Floors {apartment progress}

Special Announcement and Our Next DIY Challenge

DIY Project Parade ~ DIY Pipe Curtain Rod Tutorial

DIY Project Parade and DIY No Sew Script Drop Cloth Curtain Tutorial

DIY Project Parade ~ Custom Chalkboard Paint Tutorial and Edging Tips