Family Room – sneak peek {repurposed headboard to door pediment}

The family room makeover has been on hold while we’re renovating the apartment but I wanted to share a little repurposed headboard project I finished up a couple of weeks ago.

Using an old headboard {a gift from Amber – thanks, Amber!}, Gorilla Wood Glue, Bessy ESZ Clamps (Rockler), TransTint Dye, vinyl stencil (created using Silhouette Cameo) and craft paint, I gave an old headboad a new purpose.

Here’s a little of what’s going on in the family room:

family room design

{see more about operation family room here}

The headboard was in very poor condition, broken and falling apart. I removed the legs and repaired the main wooden part of the headboard and added a stencil.

Before…{pardon the mess, it’s a work in progress!}
So easy! The space above the family room door just needed something, ya know? {French door color is Benjamin Moore Pacific Ocean Blue with a dark glaze}.
Much better, don’t you think?
Happy Friday! Enjoy the weekend!
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Family Room Baseboard {DIY installation and caulking tutorial}

The old baseboards in the family room were 2 inches tall and lacked the character displayed in the rest of our home. The family room was a later addition to the house. After the bamboo floor was installed, we decided to go with a taller baseboard. I chose 6 x 1 inch pine.

Before…

baseboard tutorial

I started to the left of the French doors, measured and cut my board to fit the space. I do not miter baseboards. When you see the finished job, I promise you no one is going to notice that the joints/corners are not mitered.

baseboard tutorial

I moved along, placing my next un-cut 8 foot piece into place from the corner.

baseboard tutorial

Moving along to my third piece, I butted it up against the far wall to where it meets the second un-cut piece placed and draw a line where the two boards meet. This is where I’ll cut.

baseboard tutorial

So simple. I cut all of my pieces and ‘framed’ the room. {pardon the old hunter green furniture}

baseboard tutorial

Starting with “A”, I label each board so I know the order they are to be placed around the room. I got up to “K” I think. You can mark the wall too, but just having the boards in order and knowing where you start works.

Next I hauled the boards to the basement and gave each piece of baseboard two coats of paint {Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace in a semi-gloss finish) on three sides.

painting baseboards

My Porter Cable nail gun/compressor makes installing baseboards super easy.

Porter Cable nail gun & compressor

I just a nail every 14 inches near the bottom of the boards and a staggering nail near the top in between the bottom nails.

baseboard tutorial

{bad hair day = hood for pics and if you misplace safety goggles, sunglasses are the next best thing}

Our walls are not plumb. There are gaps where the baseboards gap and don’t sit flush against the wall. But that’s okay.

DAP Dyna Flex and FrogTape

Enter: DAP DynaFlex. DynaFlex is DAP’s most advanced indoor/outdoor premium latex sealant with technology that is both waterproof and paintable. It combines outstanding durability, adhesion and flexibility with easy tooling, paintability, and low odor, while also keeping insects (SPIDERS!) from entering through small gaps and cracks. It is mold and mildew resistant, making DynaFlex ideal for a wide variety of projects such as sealing around windows, doors, siding, trim, molding and baseboards.

I usually leave caulking to Mr. DIY but this time I did it myself. We’ve been really busy with real life things, so this is a task I kept putting off thinking it would be more difficult and take more time than it did. I was wrong! Caulking is the easiest DIY job I’ve ever done. And it took only about an hour.

Seriously the hardest part was learning how to load the caulk gun. Cut the caulk tube on an angle creating a small hole. And insert the tube into the gun.

DAP Dyna Flex

Handle up means “on”. Handle down means off.

caulk gun

Turn the tip of the tube so the flat side of the angled cut will rest in the ‘crack’ where baseboard meets wall.

Turn handle up to “on” (work quickly with a full tube – it pushes itself out!) and push the metal tab to start placing a bead of caulk in where the baseboard meets the wall, move along. Push. Release. Push. to maintain a steady bead. I worked in 4 foot sections. (Tip: With a new tube, be QUICK with turning the gun off an on – it will continue to squeeze out when you aren’t looking!) Remember to turn handle to ‘off’ position when you set down the caulk. As the tube empties, it will require more gripping muscle.

I had a small dish of water, a small waste basket and lots of paper towels on hand.

Dip finger into water and smooth out the bead of caulk (paper towels or rags are necessary). If it gets onto something it shouldn’t, it’s okay. It wipes/washes right off.

It created a beautiful straight flat bead filling in the gap between the wall and baseboard.

how to caulk

At first I even lined the top of the baseboard and the wall where it meets the baseboard with Frog tape to create a straighter line.

caulk installation collage

But found that the extra step wasn’t really necessary. It might be helpful if you had a big contrast between baseboards and walls. But if I made a mess or an ‘oops’, DynaFlex was easy to wipe away/clean when wet.

before

baseboard tutorial

then…{better but yikes!}

DIY baseboard tutorial

now…

DAP Dyna Flex baseboard caulking tutorial

Family room still in progress but these small details are important. DAP Dyna Flex is sandable and paintable! It’s tempting to end at this step because it looks good enough, but painting will help seal everything and give it a uniform look. Next up filling the nail holes, light sanding and paint touch up. What do you think? An easy enough project to do on my own.

DIY baseboard tutorial

Cost:  approx. $100 for wood and caulk (less than two tubes) for an approx. 200 sq. foot room.

This post is sponsored by DAP but opinion, photos and tutorial are my own. 



The Wonderful World of Woodworking

One of my goals this summer is to learn how to use the saw, as you’ve heard me say and I have more motivation than ever. I ‘met’ Kevin aka Grover recently and love his new feature

There’s also this:


There is so much inspiration! I’m thankful for the tips and love seeing what others are creating. It’s so helpful in overcoming my fears. It’s no secret that I love design and DIY but making my own furniture or accents would be so rewarding!

I love what he’s doing to his beach house kitchen. Check out the backsplash! Here is his post:

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I decided to add some small shelves on each side of the window and also changed the orientation of the wood for some additional contrast.

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I got things moving down the side wall. It’s looking good. We debated leaving the wood natural but between having glued directly to the Formica backer board and having a good amount of it showing and not really being able to extend the power outlets to sit flush on the boards we decided it would be best to continue with out plan of painting the boards.

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Here is the window with the shelves painted. You will notice we did a kind of whitewash/distressed look. I think it is turning out real well.

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I also changed the orientation of the wood over the stove, it might be hard to see in the picture but the last board has 45 degree bevel towards the wall to allot for removal of the range hood if needed. I even tested getting to the screws and didn’t have any trouble.

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J
ealous? YES! So, if you’re like me and want to learn more, head over and become a follower! There is an extra incentive you won’t want to miss too – an awesome giveaway! My goal in the next few months is to have this:

posted on my side bar. 🙂

Thanks Grover for sharing your projects! Welcome to blogging!

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