Rustoleum Countertop Transformations

Posted on August 17, 2012 by Roeshel

When I first saw the scratched, lightly burned and stained creamy colored laminate countertop in the rental, I knew I needed to either board up the door and run for the hills or an affordable and easy DIY solution. Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit was a great way to rescue this kitchen.

kitchen before…

Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit comes in 5 colors: Onyx, Charcoal, Java Stone, Desert Sand and Pebbled Ivory. Since the previous light color was stained, I decided to go with a darker color to avoid the same issue in the future. “Sleek and contemporary, Onyx is one of today’s most-sought after colors. Onyx’s black gleaming finish will modernize your kitchen and accent any decor. It perfectly complements kitchens with stark colors, white cabinets and stainless steel appliances.” The description sold me…an easy DIY way to modernize a kitchen?

A DIY option that doesn’t include removing the old and measuring for new, cutting new/etc.? Count me in! There’s a lot of DIY going on in this apartment and budget friendly, easy choices are a huge help!

I’m often asked about this DIY kit, so it was great to have the opportunity to give it a try for myself. Summary? Definitely worth the money and work to achieve the look of a brand new countertop!

My Rustoleum Countertop Transformations Experience

I read through the instructions. I also wrote down highlights when I watched the instructional DVD. The kit includes nearly everything but I did have to purchase 2 angled 2″ brushes, gloves, a 6″ microfiber roller and a 6″ foam roller (shown on the outside of the box). A shop vac is handy too.

I set up a work station close by with all of the materials on hand and ready to go.

and prepped the area using plastic drop cloths and FrogTape. I did not remove the sink, however removing the sink will make the process much easier.

Tip: I taped around the sink. However, if you have a steady hand and an angled brush, I think it’s easier to wipe away basecoat when you get it on the sink. Tape will peel away some of the finish and require touch ups but those are super easy to do too! More on that below. Tape off wall near backsplash, cover cabinets, appliances (if near by) and floor with plastic drop cloths.

The first step is to sand the counters using the diamond embedded sanding block (provided in kit) to remove the shine from the laminate, sanding in a circular motion. It actually not only removed the glossy finish but the some of the stains as well. This is by far the hardest step – not too difficult, just time consuming and requires some muscle.

{as you can see above, I removed the loose laminate side strips because they were not secure and applied each step to the non-laminated sides}

Once the sanding was done, I cleaned the countertops with a damp cloth, removing all of the dust (several times) then let them dry.

Step 2 is applying the adhesive base coat. Have the materials ready to go including: adhesive base coat, wetting spray, paint tray and microfiber roller, 2″ angled brush and decorative color chips (in the spreader). Stir the adhesive base coat.

Starting with the backsplash area, apply a heavy coat (like icing on a cake) of the adhesive base coat to the top and front of the backsplash and two inches of the countertop against the backsplash. Use the brush to apply the adhesive base coat to the sides and front of the countertop. Pour the adhesive base coat into the paint tray and roll onto the large flat area of the countertop. Make sure that none of the countertop shows through. Work quickly!

Once every spot is covered, quickly move to the next steps. Spray the wetting agent and spread decorative color chips using the spreader according to instructions. Take handfuls and apply decorative color chips in hard to reach places, covering every area of adhesive base coat. There are plenty of decorative chips. Spare no expense!

It does make quite a mess but don’t worry, they’re very easy to sweep up. I let this sit overnight then swept up the excess decorative color chips with a shop vac.

It’s starting to look awesome!

Using the scraper provided, start removing build up of dried decorative chips along the coated surfaces (being careful not to dig or remove too much).

Next, using the sanding block in the kit, sand down the decorative color chips. And sand some more. And sand again.

Vacuum up the dust

and compare the sanded countertop with the sample piece.

Sand and vacuum again if needed.

Clean with a damp cloth, making sure to get all of the dust removed and let dry. Score the FrogTape with a utility knife (we only had a razor on hand) and remove tape.

Touch ups: When I removed my FrogTape from around the sink, it did peel away some of the finish. Not to worry. Simply touch up with the adhesive base coat using a foam brush, (wipe away base coat if it gets onto the sink/etc.), apply decorative chips and wait four hours.

Sweep up the chips. Sand. Clean.

Tip: Note that this process is messy and remember to over protect areas you don’t want involved. I have a little paint touch ups to do.

Again, make sure countertops are completely dust/dirt free and dry. {looking better already, isn’t it?}

On to the last step! Once the countertop has been sanded and cleaned, gather supplies and pour Part A of the protective coat with Part B and stir.

Apply the protective clear coat starting with the top and front of the backsplash and onto about 2 inches of the level countertop. Pour some of the protective coat into a paint tray and apply to the flat areas of the countertop using the foam roller. Don’t forget to apply protective coat to the sides also.

Keep kids and pets out of the room until the protective coat dries to avoid fingerprints, pet hair, etc. in the finish.

The transformation is amazing. What a gorgeous finish and huge improvement!

Let dry 48 hours for light use and 7 days to fully cure for normal use.

Thoughts: This do-it-yourself Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit is messy but easy to use, an affordable option and the result is gorgeous. Dried nice to a nice hard finish. The countertop feels durable and looks 100% better! We’re thrilled with the results! Thanks to Bri for her help with this project! Two people are definitely better than one!

What do you think? Have you tried the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations?

Thinking about it? I hope sharing our experience helps! This YouTube video shares DIY tips.

Up next…oh yes I did! I painted those cabinets! I’ll share the process next week. But here’s a sneak peek…

You might also be interested in Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations…making painting cabinets easy (no sanding!):

I did receive product (Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit) in exchange for a review however experience, pictures and opinion are my own. For more information about Rustoleum Countertop Transformations including a how-to-guide, colors, virtual tool, photo gallery with before and after pictures and where to buy, visit Rustoleum Countertop Transformations.

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience.

8 backsplash ideas

Posted on August 16, 2012 by Roeshel

I’m trying to come up with ideas for the apartment backsplash. With a textured wall and tiny budget, my options are limited but here are some ideas I like.

The apartment kitchen certainly won’t look this fantastic, but a mirror backsplash could make the small one room first floor look larger. It may get a little smeary but it’s a lot easier to clean than textured walls.

{source – Paloma 81}

A painted pegboard (I’ve even come across metal pegboard material) would be a great option for additional storage in a small apartment!

{source – Brett Bara}

Chalkboard would also be a fun option…

{source – Apartment Therapy}

Another easy option to bright up the space and add texture is to use beadboard {or even board and batten} as a backsplash…

{source – This Old House}

I love the shine and bling (see the before and after) that this faux tin backsplash adds to the space…

{source – the Gold Jelly Bean}

I’m no stranger to paint + stencils and that combination would make for a beautiful backsplash. However with heavily textured walls, I’m not sure I’m up for that challenge. {Unless, like the chalkboard option, I install a thin piece of plyboard or similar material first.}

{source – Cutting Edge Stencils}

Oh, isn’t this reclaimed wood backsplash gorgeous? Not practical for a rental property but I do LOVE it!

{source – CircaDee}

Tile is always an option. Not too difficult and depending on tile, it can be budget friendly. I’d just have to do some research on tiling over textured walls but where there’s a will, there’s a way and I’m positive it can be done. We love our marble subway tiles in our own kitchen.

{source}

I’m still not sure if I’m going to do anything at all but what do you think of these?

How to Make a Bean Bag Toss Scoreboard

Posted on August 15, 2012 by Roeshel

At mom’s pool on Sunday, you’ll find family members swimming, eating, laughing and a bean bag tournament in progress {also known as ‘cornhole’}.

There are two teams tossing bean bags. It’s similar to playing horseshoes except that bean bags are tossed to a platform with a hole. Points are earned when the bean bag lands in the hole or on the platform. Teams can also knock their opponents bean bags in or out. Game ends when a team has reached 21. Up until now, score keeping was done mentally but for Father’s Day, I made a DIY bean bag toss scoreboard.

Bean Bag Toss Scoreboard Tutorial

Materials:

1×3 wooden beam (my piece was about 6 ft. tall)
primer
2 colors of paint (I used latex semi gloss in white and mustard acrylic craft paint)
paint marker (in black)
FrogTape (I used the yellow Delicate Surface FrogTape)
2 small pieces of dowel rod (about 2 in. each) small enough to fit into the holes of:
2 small wooden wheels
Gorilla Wood Glue
2 thumb tacks
craft paint (I used red and blue)
Krylon Crystal Clear (Indoor/Outdoor protective clear coat – satin finish)

I cut my 1×3 to about 6 ft. and used the miter saw to make one end into a ‘point’ like a garden stake.

I applied a coat of primer and two top coats of paint (allow to dry between each coat).

Next, using a 2″ scrap piece of wood to measure, I drew pencil lines creating 22 separate ‘boxes’ (using the scrap piece means my boxes are approx. 2″, starting from the top and working my way towards the garden stake point. {shown measuring on unpainted wood…but…do this step after wood is painted base color}

Using FrogTape, I taped off every other “box”, starting with the bottom box so it would be painted with the accent color (yellow). I made sure I rubbed the edges (burnished) for a good seal on the edges of the tape. Since I had just recently painted the white base color, I used Delicate Surface FrogTape because it’s safe to use on freshly painted surfaces (but at least 24 hrs) since it’s has a more gentle adhesive.

Interesting FrogTape fact: FrogTape is the only tape treated with patented PaintBlock Technology. PaintBlock is a super-absorbent polymer which reacts with latex paint and instantly gels to form a micro-barrier that seals the edges of the tape, preventing paint bleed.

Tape on the ‘outside” of the pencil lines for every other square to be painted an alternating accent color.

I gave each accent colored box 2 coats of paint and immediately removed the tape after the second coat.

Once that was dry, I used a paint pen/marker to number “0” to “21” going from bottom to top in every box.

While paint was drying in the steps listed above, I worked on the ‘point markers’. I painted (two coats) one dowel/one wooden wheel set red and the other blue. TIP: In hind site – use Gorilla Glue and insert the dowel rod into the wooden wheel and allow to dry before painting (painting them separate will make it harder to fit the dowel into the wheel hole).

Once glued, painted and dried, I added a push pin (coordinating color) into the dowel rod where in the center of the wooden wheel to give it a more finished game piece look.

Back to the scoreboard: Once my painted numbers were dry, we drilled holes (that fit the dowel rod) into the side of the numbered sections. Choose a bit that will go all the way through. When finished, I pushed a screwdriver into the holes and rolled it around a little to smooth out the drilled space.

Sand a little and touch up paint.

I gave the score board and score keeping pieces a couple of coats of Krylon’s Crystal Clear. Dries in 10 minutes and everything has a protective coat.

I also used a little wax on the end of each dowel rod so they would fit into the drilled holes for score keeping a little easier.

Now, bean bag score keeping is more accurate and no one has to ask “what is the score again?”

Does your family play this game at summer get-togethers? What do you think? Purchasing a scoreboard online ranged from $25 to $90! My DIY version was less than $20 and coordinates with the Steeler’s themed bean bag toss at my mom’s. Just in time for Labor Day picnics and a family reunion. 🙂

Note: We will add a piece of gutter spout into the ground for holding the scoreboard in place but it could also be pounded into the ground, attached to a bench, etc.

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my experience. Need some FrogTape project inspiration? Check out the FrogTape blog squad with projects being updated/added frequently for more ideas!

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Monthly Archives: August 2012

Rustoleum Countertop Transformations

8 backsplash ideas

How to Make a Bean Bag Toss Scoreboard