Chandelier Planter Tutorial

About a month ago, we hosted a BBQ for our family – filled with good food, a fun gardening project and great times…stuff special family memories are made of.

DIYShowOff chandelier planter

I started the prep work in advance, so that the fun part of planting flowers was the only concern on the part of my guests.

How to Make a Chandelier Planter

how-to-make-a chandelier-flower-planter

CONTINUE TO THE TUTORIAL  

Free Standing Pallet Herb Garden

Our vegetable garden is located a few acres from the house. Wanting to have a small herb garden closer to the patio, grill and kitchen and inspired by so many vertical pallet planters (thanks, Amanda!), Mr. DIY and I created a free standing (moveable) vertical pallet herb garden.

free-standing-vertical-pallet-herb-garden  

CONTINUE TO THE TUTORIAL  

DIY {half} globe light fixture cover

DIY Globe Light Fixture Cover

After I completed the wall mounted-pallet shelf, I updated some of the light fixtures including the one in the sitting room…

allen-roth-edison-orb

Allen + Roth Edison Oil Rubbed Bronze

However, the glass on this specific light is very thin and it cracked during the final stages of assembly, just by screwing in the light bulb. The crack was located in such a way that it wasn’t safe. I feared the entire glass piece was going to come crashing down.

cracked-glass

So, one rainy day, I gathered some supplies from around the house and created a new cover? fixture? globe? well, northern hemisphere at least.

DIY-globe-light-fixture-cover-tutorial

Here is what I did:

Materials: 

  • LOW WATTAGE light bulb
  • old globe (I have an addiction. I can’t pass up a globe at the thrift store, thus a collection on hand.)
  • craft paint (I had DecoArt’s Patio Paint/rich espresso on hand.) A high heat/temperature paint is a better, safer option.
  • double fold bias tape (Again…I had brown left over from a patio cushion project.)
  • hot glue
  • Sharpie
  • Edited to add: Flameproof coating

Tools:

  • Utility knife
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Scissors
  • Glue gun
  • Craft paint brush

I started by disassembling the globe by gently pulling the frame from the north/south pole. My globe popped right out.

globe

I also chose a globe that wasn’t in the best shape, so the north and south hemispheres just pulled apart. (Cut seam along the equator with a utility knife if needed.)

split-globe

Next, using a Sharpie, I traced the fitting (or draw a circle the size of where the globe will be held into place on the light fixture).

globe-light-tutorial

I used a utility knife to remove some of the map/cardboard and discovered a metal circle underneath. I was able to remove it with pliers. Then cut away the rest of the cardboard/paper with a pair of scissors.

globe-light-cover

I painted the inside of my globe and let it dry (well, sort of. I may have been too eager to move on to the next step)…

paint-inside-globe

Then attached the bias tape around the perimeter with hot glue.

gluing-bias-tape

Since I was impatient with waiting for paint to dry and had a little “oopsy”…paint on the bias tape, I used a Sharpie to create a design to distract from the accidental smudge. Imperfection adds character.

globe-light-border

Ready to install.

globe-ceiling-light-cover

Heading to the basement: This is also the path to the basement and I can breathe a sigh of relief that the cracked glass isn’t going to hurt someone when it comes crashing down or that it’s no big deal if my 6’2″ husband carrying a ladder accidentally hits the globe. I kept worrying he’d ‘ding’ that thin glass on his way through…now, it’s okay.

sitting-room-ceiling

It fits with the style of our sitting room too…

sitting-room

Easy enough.  (Would also work as a lamp shade…decorative only.}

half-globe-light-cover

 Mystikit: Purchase the materials and tools needed to make this half globe light fixture cover.

sitting-room-diy

*more DIY projects in this space:

 *This light shade is mainly decorative. In our home, it is rarely turned on for more than a few minutes at a time. Please do your homework and consider safety in your own home before using a globe as a light fixture. 

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How to install a tiled backsplash

We’re finally shopping for tile for behind our stove area so I wanted to revisit how our kitchen has evolved and the tile we chose for our back splash as well as review the steps we took to install the tile. Our kitchen when we bought the house was outdated…

When we moved we only paint the walls green, inserted new SS appliances and range hood. We lived with it for 3 years then painted the cabinets and finally replaced the countertop with granite (Virginia Jet Mist). Working as time and budget allow sometimes mean waiting for the things we want.
tile-backsplash-tutorial
We had a savings to get started on our dream kitchen (the dream where we have savings but the dream without winning the lottery.
The back splash:

Materials:
Venatino Polished Marble Tiles 12×12 mosaic, 5 Venatino Pencil Borders
OmniGrip Maximum Strength Adhesive
Tile Guard Natural Stone Penetrating Sealer
QuartzLock Grout - silver
FrogTape
Caulk

Tools:
Tile saw
Trowel
Float
Putty knife
Bucket
Sponge
Bucket
Paper towels
Rags
Caulk gun
DAP Pro Caulk Tool Kit

Back Splash Tutorial:

1.  Apply caulk to gap where countertop meets the wall.

2.  We used a DAP Pro Caulk Tools to make an even/straight line, but a using your finger (and water) works just as well.

3.  Prep area.  Cover countertop or clean as you go to protect the counter top.

4.  Upper cabinets sit back further than the edge of the countertop. We wanted out backsplash to cover the entire area. We started at the edge of the counter for our backsplash. Decide how your tile edge will be finished.  We used a matching border from the countertop’s edge vertically and ended at the bottom of the end of the wall cabinet.  We mitered the joint where vertical meets horizontal.
5.  Apply border and tile with OmniGrip Adhesive using a trowel.  Coat the wall (can be done directly on drywall).  OmniGrip is pre-mixed so there’s no guessing on consistency and this product works really well for a back splash.
6.  To lessen breakage and crumbling when cutting (the vibration nearly pulverizes edges of the marble), we used FrogTape on cuts.

7.  Apply pressure to ‘set’ tiles in place.

Another shot of how we ended the tile on the countertop/cabinet edge.

8.   Let dry at least 2 days.

9.  Seal tiles using Tile Guard.  Wipe on with a rag.  It dries within seconds.

10.  After drying, prep area by covering countertops or clean as you go – dried grout {We chose Quartz Lock in a darker gray} will be hard to remove.

Have a bucket of water handy.

11.  Apply generous amount of Quartz Lock to the float using a putty knife.

Quartz Lock is pre-mixed. We cover with a plastic grocery bag, then the lid with a tight seal and save leftover for a future project.
12.  Add grout to spaces between the tiles, filling every gap, working in small areas going to next step and starting again with the next area.  Smoosh it in the gaps.
13.  Using a well-wrung wet sponge, wipe in a diagonal motion (except when necessary against countertop and cabinets), wiping away grout from tile.  Grout should stay in the cracks and gaps, but be cleaned away from tiles.

14.  Rinse sponge.

15.  Repeat.

16.  Let dry.  Grout will hide imperfections/crumbled edges of marble tile.  Don’t stress with tiny chips. Grout will disguise them. We have an old farmhouse, so our motto is “imperfection adds character”.
Before Grout:
After Grout:
Kitchen before:
Kitchen after:
We’re thinking of stainless steel tiles for behind the stove but I haven’t decided on the pattern or shape of tiles yet.
We just calculated that we’ll be in our house 7 years this summer. And we’re ready to put the finishing touches on the kitchen. About time, right?  We’ll be removing the cabinets above the stove to install a proper vent. It means losing those two cupboards but more on a pantry coming soon too. What do you think?
I think the chef’s dream stove/range is on that ‘winning the lottery’ dream kitchen and he’ll have to make do with what we have but it’s functional. Sorry, Mr. DIY.
See more about our kitchen makeover at our Home Tour
DIY Show Off farmhouse kitchen makeover
Similar products for this project:
Star Quartz Quartz Lock 2 Ug Tile Grout-Birch 18lb bucket
Carrara Marble Italian White Bianco Carrera 3×6 Marble Subway Tile Honed
Custom Building Products TLOSQT-3 TileLab OneStep Cleaner and Resealer
Frog Tape 82021 Pro Painters Masking Tape, 1-1/2-Inch by 60-Yards, Green
Pro Caulk Complete Caulking Kit (As Seen On TV)
Goldblatt G02391 1/4-Inch By 3/8-Inch By 1/4-Inch Square Notch Trowel With Plastic Handle
TBC Margin Trowel Float 6″x 2-1/2″ Professional Gum Rubber Face Bonder to Foam Rubber Pad. Speciality Grout Float Designed for Hard to Reach Areas. Narrow Width & Offset Handle Allow Work Under Toe-Kick Space Under Cabinets and Small Areas. Float 11″
SKIL 3540-02 4.2-Amp 7-Inch Wet Tile SawThis is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience. FrogTape Blog Squad

Blue Valentine Vignette

Last year, I created a small blue Valentine vignette in our home.

Valentine decor

 

Ribbon Wreath Tutorial

turquoise Valentine wreath {key to my heart wreath}

The thing about this wreath is I can leave it up a little longer since it shares my March birthstone color. :)
X’s & O’s decorative accent tutorial

I decided to do some X’s and O’s for Valentine’s Day. Hugs and Kisses are always a great accessory, right?  :)

Materials:

  • Cardboard x’s and o’s
  • Deco Art Americana acrylic craft paint {White Wash and Desert Turquoise}
  • Deco Art Victorian Baroque Border Stencil
  • Sanding block

1. I gave my letters two coats of paint and let dry.

2. I sanded the edges for a worn/vintage look.

3. Add decorative touches using a stencil.

That’s it!

What do you think? That’s a DIY photo backdrop…but for all you know, it could be a beautiful wall in my home, right? These accessories are really displayed elsewhere in my home. :)

Do you decorate for Valentine’s day? This year I’m keeping it subtle…

DIY heart ribbon wreath

Valentine’s Decorating Ideas

wink

I’m joining the party:

His & Hers painted pillow covers

His & Hers Pillow Covers

I shared my painted upholstered chairs

Christmas sitting room with painted striped chairs

I also liked that the Serena & Lily chair {my inspiration for the stripe} had matching accent pillows.

Serena and Lily Bark Miramar Racing Stripe Chair

I just so happened to have 2 matching pillow cases on hand. What are the chances? I have had them just sitting in a basket in my craft room along with the other supplies. I love when DIY project was meant to be! {Chairs are actually a light grey and the pillows are a linen color…but they look so well together!}

His and Hers Pillow Covers tutorial

Materials:

  • FrogTape
  • two pillow covers
  • latex paint
  • acrylic craft paint
  • stencils

FrogTape-stripe-pillow-cover-tutorial

I measured the width of the stripes on the chairs and using FrogTape,I created the same stripe on the front of my pillow covers. I did insert a piece of cardboard to prevent paint from soaking through the back side. I filled in my stripe with the brown latex paint that I used on the chairs. I removed the FrogTape and let them dry. Then simply used stencils to spell out “His” and “Hers” (using an acrylic craft paint). I’ve read that you can set the paint with a warm iron.

I also liked that some of the fabric shows through for a worn look.

painted pillow cover

Awe…His & Hers

FrogTape painted striped Hers pillow

Now my chairs are complete! Christmas in the sitting room coming soon! :)

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*This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my experience. Results may vary. 

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Painted Upholstered Chair Tutorial {before and after}

Painted upholstered chairs – story of an unplanned DIY.

Does your DIY ever go like this: I started my day with big plans to finally sew the curtains in the family room. In order to do so, I needed to clean off the dining room table which was piled with boxes filled with ornaments and holiday decor and other junk from the shuffling around, rearranging and decorating {because of course the table in my craft room is piled high with an unorganized cluttered mess that also needs cleaned}.

DIY painted upholstered chair tutorial

Of course clearing the dining room table meant decorating for Christmas which lead me to the room right off the dining room that we’re currently calling the “sitting room”. So, in order to sew curtains for the family room, I had to clean the dining room which meant decorating the sitting room and in there were these chairs.

These $6 thrift store chairs. I loved the color and pattern. But I have had a difficult time with orange, fuchsia and olive green colors. Love them. But they don’t work in our home. I gave them a chance, but not even in our eclectic home. I considered slipcovers but I am decorating this room right now. No materials or time for slipcovers.

{before}

chair before

And I had the brilliant idea to paint them. Right then. That minute.

I had seen the upholstery painting tutorial at Hyphen Interiors in 2011. Loved it. Left an impression. Very inspiring.

I also knew I had most materials on hand. Paint! Everything except the fabric medium. I’ve looked at the bottles for sale at Michael’s in the past {for painted curtains} and knew they weren’t cheap. I was also still in my pajamas and on a mission. Sewing curtains, remember?! But these multi-colored chairs were an obstacle.

DIY girls thoughts: No fabric medium. No budget. No desire to run to the store. Lots of leftover latex paint. The only one who really sits in these chairs is the cat. So for now…if painting doesn’t go right, I can still slip cover them at a later date. GO FOR IT!

I found a left over can of Ralph Lauren paint that I hated working with as it was super watery. Perfect! I watered it down even further with water. I didn’t measure, just created a consistency that was still able to hold to the paint brush but watery enough to be absorbed into the textured fabric of the chairs. I used a 2.5 inchPurdy brush.

I gave the chairs a good cleaning, getting up all of the cat hair (FrogTape works great as a cat fur remover).

And I just started painting. My mixture of latex and water had amazing coverage.

I also taped off the legs using FrogTape.

painting upholstered chair

Sometimes I had to swirl the brush for coverage, then followed up with a straight brush stroke.

painting upholstery

And worked my way along the bottom edges, up the side, around the back, in the creases of the attached cushions and finished by painting the seat back and cushion.

painting an upholstered chair

I took a few breaks and a bigger one between the painting the two chairs. The Paintbrush Cover was perfect for keeping my paintbrush from drying out. It creates an airtight seal during usage. Simply place the brush in the cover and close the lid. After my break, I simply opened the cover, removed my brush. It was like I never stopped painting! {Thanks to Salvatore of the Paintbrush Cover for the gift…definitely something that’s going to get a lot of use around here. If you paint a lot…visit the link above to purchase a few for yourself. Definitely useful and convenient! 2 must have DIY paint tools to have on hand: FrogTape and the Paintbrush Cover.}

The Paintbrush Cover

One coat. It dried fairly fast. I removed the FrogTape which perfectly protected the wooden legs. Who even noticed those pretty legs with that crazy printed fabric before? Discovery: She has legs with beautiful carved detail!

removing FrogTape

The texture which was lost in the busy pattern…

before

upholstery before

now shows the quilted pattern with a solid color…

after

painted upholstery after

SO PRETTY!

And before you ask, yes…without the fabric medium, my chairs are rough. They have a vinyl look and feel. Since the paint is watered down…it’s not going to crack or chip or anything. The paint is absorbed into the fabric. I would recommend NOT skipping the fabric medium and to use the recipe shared by Hyphen Interiors. However…if you find yourself in a DIY emergency like me and aren’t particular about a sort of vinyl look/feel. And you have to do something or your entire Christmas decorating is going to be a big fail and you’ll never move on to the project that you planned to complete in the first place…I must tell you, I love these chairs now. Forget the slipcovers.

I knew I wanted to do more than just have a set of solid light grey chairs. My inspiration:

Serena & Lily Bark Miramar Racing Stripe Chair

Serena and Lily Bark Miramar Racing Stripe Chair

Of course I know that my chairs aren’t the same shape. They’re slender girls with long legs. But that stripe. I love that stripe. Not quite a knock off or copy cat project, but it’s what inspired my next steps…

I found the center of the chair and using FrogTape, created a stripe down the middle. I was sure to burnish the edges where the tape would meet paint. And using  leftover {watered down} brown latex paint, I painted in my stripes from bottom of the front of the chair, over the cushion, up seat back and down the back of the chair.

FrogTape stripe

I removed the FrogTape while the paint was still wet, pulling away from the wet paint. I did take a wet paper towel to carefully wipe away wet paint where a tiny bit seeped under the tape due to the texture of the fabric. See – it’s a good thing I have that vinyl-ish finish!

Removing FrogTape Stripe

Amazing transformation, right? Love it!

striped painted upholstery

Now I’m happy with my $6 chairs.And I was able to decorate the sitting room for Christmas.

See more Painted Upholstery Chair pictures in the sitting room mini makeover. 

painted upholstered chair tutorial

His & Hers painted pillow covers

painted pillow cover

{tutorial}

His and Hers Pillow Covers tutorial

I was able to get the dining room table cleared off and decorated and the clutter put away. (okay…for real, some of that was shifted to the craft room table which is dangerously close to an avalanche. Shhhh!)

I still haven’t sewn 6 of the 8 family room curtain panels. {Remember the no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt and the sewing machine being at the repair shop? One of these days I’ll get those curtains done. You don’t remember that I’ve had the fabric since June, do you?}

Perhaps another day, I’ll have a DIY plan that will go according to plan.

Joining the party here:

shabby creek cottage Beneath My Heart

 

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*This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my experience. Results may vary. 

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How to Make a NO SEW Ombre Ruffled Tree Skirt

{no sew} Ruffled Ombre Tree Skirt Tutorial

With an eclectic family room makeover in progress, we’re decorating the Christmas tree with fun non-traditional colors for Christmas. I know – my house is a mish mash of themes but I do what I love and I’m loving walking from room to room with a different scene. However, finding a colorful non-traditional tree skirt is nearly impossible. Then I remembered that few years ago, I stumbled across a no-sew ruffled tree skirt and although I don’t remember where I saw it, I remember it was a lot easier than I imagined.

No Sew Ruffled Ombre Tree Skirt tutorial

It’s much harder to explain how to do it in words than actually working on this. It’s so easy! This could even be done using a sewing machine (which was my plan but I had to go to Plan B when my sewing machine stopped working). It is time consuming but can be done in one day if you work on it a lot. I made mine in two days. Crank up the Christmas tunes!

Here’s how I did it: 

Materials:

  • round vinyl/flannel back table cloth
  • 5 colors of lightweight fabric (dark to light in color). I purchased 2 yards of the darkest, 2 yards of the second darkest, 1.5 years of the next color, 1 yard of the lightest colors. Yes, a lot. I bought 7.5 yards of fabric. {Use coupons! Look for sales/clearance fabric.}
  • Hot glue (approx. 100 glue sticks) OR swap out hot glue for sewing
  • Duct tape

Tools: scissors, iron

Tutorial:

1. My round table cloth was was too large. I started by folding it in half and placing it under the tree. This gave me an idea of where I’d want to cut. I didn’t measure. Just decided I needed to cut off about 10-12 inches. no sew tree skirt 2. I folded the half circle table cloth in half again to create a pie-slice shape. Then just cut {rounding it} approx. 10″ from the outer edge. how to make a no sew tree skirt 3. Snip the pointed edge of the folded table cloth. no sew ruffled tree skirt 4. Cut along one fold from outer circle to inner. no sew tree skirt tutorial 5. Place under the tree and decide if more needs to be trimmed. And if I liked the “Twister” vibe of my vinyl table cloth, I’d be done! But, um. No. Something better in mind.

no sew tree skirt

Tip: cover edges of smaller hole {where tree trunk will be}  with duct tape. I used FrogTape. This little area is susceptible to tearing…tape will help prevent tears.

6. Spread out fabric {keep folded}. Any size strips will do. Larger widths will create bigger ruffles. Smaller widths, smaller/more ruffles. I decided on small 4 1/2 inch wide strips. I marked the fabric and cut my strips (no need to be a perfectionist about perfectly straight strips but keep as straight as possible). Length doesn’t matter. Most of my fabric was 54″ wide, but one of my fabrics had a smaller width.

no sew ruffled tree skirt

A lot of strips! 7. Time to iron. And iron. And iron some more.

no sew tree skirt tutorial

Take a break.

8. Start at the outer edge, along the vertical cut (the back of the tree skirt). Folded edge towards you, raw edge will be glued. Place the strip of fabric so it hangs off the vinyl table cloth.  I applied hot glue to the end of a strip of fabric, attach to back side on flannel and wrap around to the front of the vinyl (only about an inch or so on the back). no sew ruffle tree skirt 9. I worked in about 4-6inch sections (just eye-balling it, making sure to hide the outer edge of the vinyl table cloth. I applied a line of hot glue, then pressed the raw edge of the folded fabric strip onto the hot glue line. AS I WENT, I’d create “pinch” pleats (glue a straight 2-3 inches, fold the fabric up towards you, then press down another 2-3 inches of fabric strait onto the hot glue line.

no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial

10. Insert a small amount of hot glue into the folded fabric. Press down flat.

no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial

11. Attach the little flaps with a dab of hot glue if needed.

no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial

12. Repeat and continue. no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial 13. When another strip of fabric is needed, open end of fabric, place the end of the last fabric strip, add some glue and fold. (Just create an extended strip of fabric).

no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial

14. When completing the row around the edge of the circle, cut strip of fabric about an inch and fold onto the flannel back and secure in place with hot glue {as shown in step 8}.

15. Continue onto the next row. Since my ruffles were smaller, I used up all of my darkest color then continued onto the next color. Sometimes it was in the middle of a ruffle, most of the time, I ended a color at the end of a row. My fabric mostly ran four rows. Working towards the center, will require less fabric.

no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial

16. I noticed that as I worked, my circle wasn’t so perfect anymore. I kept going. Around the trunk area, inner tree skirt, I did have to fill in with fabric strips…again, it’s not perfect…just play with creating more ruffles under what you’ve done, if you see vinyl showing through or have vinyl that’s not circle shaped towards the end. No one will be able to tell…just create pleats/ruffles with the same color to fill in.

17. Near the “trunk” part of the tree skirt, I finished off with a sheer white double ruffle from my scrap supply. You can use wide ribbon…create a double ruffle by hand with a running stitch with thread (no knot) in the center length wise and pulling ends to “gather”. Or use ribbon or bias tape, or follow the same steps but do the last row upside down, gluing raw edge to raw edge, creating pleats/ruffles. Cover hot glued raw edges with thin piece of pretty ribbon using hot glue. no sew ruffled ombre tree skirt tutorial 18. I ran a length of duct tape up the ends of the ruffles on the back side just to keep things neatly tucked down.

ruffled tree skirt

Looks like an expensive professionally sewn beautiful tree skirt, right? So pretty in any color, even drop cloth or burlap or how about using white flat sheets? You’ll have to let me know if you give this a try {or if you already have!}. I’d love to see it!

ombre ruffled tree skirt

Oh – and you will experience some hot glue burns. No sew doesn’t mean no pain. Ouch! But they only hurt for a few seconds.

teal ombre ruffled tree skirt

{Leftover fabric strips were torn into thinner strips and used as garland.} Stop back later this week for Christmas tree pictures!

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DIY upholstered tufted ottoman tutorial {Wayfair DIY Challenge}

Remember, oh I don’t know, 10 years ago (Just kidding. It feels that way!) when I started our family room makeover? Then we got sidetracked with an apartment renovation but since we’re wrapping up the last minute details there, the family room makeover is back on my DIY schedule. Of course that means a lot of DIY projects, decorating and furnishing and on that list was a DIY upholstered tufted ottoman. 

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

Challenge: Have you heard of Wayfair.com? It’s the largest online retailer of home furnishings and decor, with millions of products for the home that fit any style and budget. They believe that getting crafty with your decor is one of the best ways to add a unique personal touch to your home. That’s why they created the DIY Blogger Challenge. I was invited to participate and had the option to choose from a coffee table, book case or pendant light. All fun products but I took one look at the coffee table and knew I wanted to create an upholstered tufted ottoman.

pinterest challenge logo

And as I found many tutorials and inspiration on Pinterest, I’m joining the Fall Pinterest Challenge as well. I have built an ottoman in the past {see my tips for building an ottoman} but tufting is a new experience to me and one I’ve been wanting to try for a while now. My ottoman upholstery/tufting experience: 

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman tutorial

Here’s what I did: 

  • Furinno Espresso Coffee Table
  • 4″ foam (This can be pricey. Use coupons or try foam from an egg crate twin bed cushion.) 
  • batting
  • fabric (I purchased 1 1/2 yards. 1 yard for the project, scrap for button covers)
  • spray adhesive
  • tools: scissors, Sharpie, yard stick, drill, electric knife, felt tip pen, screwdriver

I started by laying the coffee table top on my foam and measuring just a little bit bigger (about 1/2 inch).

DIY tufted ottoman - marking foam

Using an electric knife, I cut out my piece of foam.

DIY Ottoman Tutorial - cutting foam

With a yard stick and measuring in halves, I made a grid on the foam with a Sharpie. Then decided where I wanted my button tufts to be located. I did 3 rows totaling 11 buttons (4 buttons, 3 buttons then 4 buttons). 

DIY ottoman tutorial - grid on foam

I poked a hole where I wanted my button tufts using a screw driver. Then flipped my foam and poked through that side as well.

DIY ottoman tutorial - poking holes in foam

The screwdriver pushed out the foam, creating a small hole all the way through the foam. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - poking holes in foam

I flipped my coffee table top back side up, laid the foam on top and using a felt tip pen pushed into the holes, I made a mark on the table top where I’d want to drill holes for tufting. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - marking drill holes

I drilled the marks, then flipped the table top over and cleaned up that side of the drilled holes by drilling through them again. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - drill holes

Next I used a spray adhesive to attach the foam to the table top. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - spray adhesive for foam to wood

Then covered the foam with batting (cut just a half inch longer than the edges of the foam and table top).

DIY ottoman tutorial - cover foam with batting

I covered the batting with my fabric. Again, measuring and cutting just enough to pull onto the underneath for stapling. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - cover with fabric

Tufting:

  • fabric scrap and button kit (or buttons for tufting)
  • upholstery needles
  • wax covered button thread DIY ottoman - tufting materials
  • anchor buttons
  • staples
  • tools: stapler, scissors

I put together the fabric covered buttons I wanted to use on the top of my ottoman for tufting. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - fabric covered buttons

Then, I threaded the largest upholstery needle with the waxed button thread. (I had no idea what this was for when starting but learned through use that the wax helps hold the tufted button when the waxed thread is pulled tight.) I attached the fabric covered button to my threaded needle and started at the center of my upholstered table top. Locating the hole is tricky (I did lift my batting to help guide my needle). Find the tufting hole and poke the needle through the fabric, batting, foam hole and into the hole in the wooden table top, pulling the needle out the bottom of the table top.

Thread an anchor button onto the needle. Thread the needle back through a second hole in the anchor button and back up through another hole one more time.  Push the button down towards the hole in the wooden table top. Pull tight.

While thread is pulled tight and anchor button is secure against the wooden table top, staple thread onto the wooden table top a few times using a zig zag pattern.

Leaving enough thread to tie a knot, cut the thread and put the needle aside. Tie a knot in the thread.

DIY ottoman tutorial - tufting tutorial

Repeat. I worked from the middle out. Note: I used random anchor buttons I already had on hand.

The front will look like this:

DIY ottoman tutorial - button tufting

Move completed tufted table top to an area where it can lie flat. Pull the fabric tight around the sides of the foam to the under side of the tabletop and staple into place. Start in the middle of each side and smooth batting and fabric as you go. 

DIY ottoman tutorial - stapling fabric

Then work on the corners. Wrap them like a present. There is no wrong way, just try to create a smooth corner. Staple into place on the bottom of the table top. Be sure to stay clear of the pre-drilled holes for attaching the legs to the table top!

All done! For added security, I covered my buttons and thread with duct tape (not shown). Flip and admire your upholstered tufted ottoman cushion!

DIY ottoman tutorial - upholstered tufted bench

Assemble the rest of the coffee table as per instructions. Attach newly upholstered tufted top just as you would the regular top according to the directions. Assembly was extremely easy.

DIY ottoman - assemble coffee table

  • tools: screwdriver, rubber mallet 

Accessorize: What I loved about this coffee table is that it has two bottom shelves and comes with bins! I gave the bins a little makeover using FrogTape and fabric paint and added chalkboard labels that I had on hand. 

DIY ottoman - painting bins

Now I have an upholstered tufted ottoman for the family room!

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

DIY upholstered tufted ottoman

What do you think? Pretty easy and affordable. Visit wayfair on facebook here or on pinterest here.

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Disclosure: Thank you to Wayfair for the coffee table and the challenge and to Giftcards.com for providing the gift card for my project materials. This post was also partially sponsored and brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my experience and project results may vary. 

 FrogTape Blog Squad

Linking up:

TDC Before and AfterHome Stories A2Z
and more about the Fall Pinterest Challenge from these sweet friends hosting:
Katie from Bower Power Blog
Sherry from Young House Love
Sarah from Ugly Duckling House
Carmel from Our Fifth House

Refinishing Hardwood Floors {apartment progress}

How I refinished the apartment hardwood floors…

When we started the apartment renovation, I knew the hardwood floors would need to be refinished. Previous tenants had some sort of mishap and the finish was ruined…{I try not to think long and hard about the details of the mishap. ::shudder::}

condition of hardwood floors before:

hardwood floors before

We started by sanding the floors (well, by “we” I really mean, I supervised while my nephew controlled the beast known as the orbital sander). Once the steps to strip the old finish was completed and floors and sawdust were cleaned up, we were ready to refinish the original hardwood for a new look.

All sanded!

sanding hardwood floor

I headed to True Value for the materials I needed {and a few other things too but more coming on that soon}:

  • Minwax Wood Finish, stirred not shaken {Color is “Dark Walnut”}. Minwax has great informational guide too.
  • Minwax High Build Polyurethane (clear satin), stirred not shaken (martini is optional)
  • FrogTape
  • angled 3.5″ Purdy paintbrushes – “White Bristle” {recommended for stain}
  • angled 3 ” Purdy brush – “Black China Bristle” for polyurethane
  • old clean rags {I actually had these on hand but you CAN buy them at True Value too!}
  • Optional: latex gloves {I lived with brown stained nails for a day or two…oops.}
  • Suggestion: pillow for knees and definitely old clothes {not sold at True Value}
  • 220 grit sandpaper
  • Mineral spirits and clean rags

Staining Hardwood Floors

The process is a fairly simple DIY. The task is just time consuming (and a little labor intensive because of my position on ‘old knees’). Since I was working with two small rooms, I opted to use a brush and work on my hands and knees vs. a roller.

I started in a far corner of the room, working with the wood grain, with the direction of the wood planks, working my way out of the room – don’t work yourself into a corner – no fun being trapped!

For extra protection, tape off baseboards/shoe molding using FrogTape.

I dipped my Purdy brush into the can of Minwax stain, tapped off the extra and applied the stain in a corner, working along the baseboard along the length of the wood plank. When I noticed that some of the stain wasn’t absorbing, I let it sit for a few minutes then wiped away the excess with an old rag.

staining hardwood floors

I worked in 2-4 foot sections in length as I went along right to left in my room, working my way towards the door. Sometimes I did a larger number of planks as well, just find a rhythm that works for you.

refinishing hardwood floors

Bedroom done. I worked my way out into the hallway…

staining hardwood floors

down the stairs and around the bend…

staining stair treads

and started the main floor in a corner, working my way out the door.

staining hardwood floors

Sounds like I ended up at Grandmother’s place (over the river and through the woods) and a lot quicker than it actually took. ! 

TIPS: Since I’m working my way actually out of the apartment, I had to make sure to grab things I needed like purse, keys, cell phone, etc. Turn off things that you don’t want to leave on during the drying period. The radio blasted during our drying time. Oops!

Note: Two coats can be applied (see Minwax for further instructions). I loved the color one coat achieved so I skipped this step. Sealing the floor will also darken the color a bit. One coat of stain:

dark walnut hardwood floors

I let my floors dry a few days but we were working in an unoccupied space. I applied the stain on a Friday and returned the following week to resume refinishing by sealing the floors. Sealing the floors is NOT optional, it’s required. It’s necessary. Stain does not protect the wood, only colors/enhances the beauty.

Sealing the floors…

sealing hardwood floors

I used the same process as above to seal the floors. Starting in the far corner of the room, I repeated the same steps of dipping my paint brush into the polyurethane, tapping, applying in the corner, brushing right to left (the direction I was personally working), along the baseboards and working my way out the door.

It really enhances the rich beautiful color:

minwax high build polyurethane

I let the first coat of polyurethane dry 48 hours.

My most UN-favorite part: once the first coat is dry, lightly sand the entire floor with a 220 grit sandpaper. Clean floors of dust with mineral spirits and let dry. Then apply a second coat of polyurethane using the same steps. Repetitive. Time consuming. But so rewarding!

Allow to dry for 12 hours to resume “light use” (however – test the floor first!). Remove FrogTape.

Stand back, remember the before (try not to gag):

hardwood floors before

Admire the gorgeous after: 

apartment sneak peek alert!

dark walnut stained hardwood floors

Pinterest tip: Did you know that if you rub a wood scratch (floors and furniture) with a walnut (circular motions, filling in the scratch), the walnut oils will fill in the scratch and heal the wood wound? Great snack, too!

Estimated total cost of DIY refinishing 2 small rooms of hardwood (approx. 250 sq. feet) = $250.00 and a few days of recovery…but nothing that would keep you out of your True Value hardware store to prepare for your next DIY. ;)

Joining Sarah’s party today:

TDC Before and After

We were chosen by True Value to be one of the members of the 2012 DIY Squad. I have been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY projects. However, the thoughts and opinions expressed are completely honest and my own. I have not been paid to publish positive comments and no one has twisted my arm to participate. 

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience. 

FrogTape Blog Squad

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Redoux Interiors’ tips and technique for creating a real wood look…

I’m on vacation this week – hurray! I’ll still be in and out of “the office” but I’m so happy to have a few guests this week. First up is my super talented blog friend, Karen:

Hi DIY Showoff Readers, I am Karen, aka “Good Time Charlie from Redoux Interiors.

I am thrilled to be here filling in for Roeshel. I love Roeshel’s blog so much, probably for many of the same reasons you do. There are really good tutorials here, and I always learn something new. I am going to share with you how to make anything look like wood, for real!

Do you ever find a piece of furniture, especially a table, that you really wished had a rich, wood toned top, and you could paint the rest. The problem? The top is plastic, or veneer that is really in bad shape, or just ugly wood! These nightstands started out like this:

I had a vision for these two. I wanted them to have a rich wood top, and an expensive, creamy glazed body.

I achieved the look by using several layers of glaze. This isn’t hard, and you don’t really need any particular artistic skills, just a little practice, and you can start turning any surface into wood.

I come across a lot of Farm tables like this. Maybe you even have one in your home? The wood top is usually inferior wood that isn’t stainable. Many of these tables are built well, they just need an updated “Redoux”!

If you haven’t worked with glaze before, you might want to start by just familiarizing yourself with how it works, feels. Try antiquing something with glaze, and then adding another darker glaze to deepen the color, you will get the hang of this technique in no time.

Let’s get started, time to gather your materials:

I use Modern Masters products for this technique, they are high quality and the products are concentrated so I end up using less. You can purchase these online through the MM website, some Kelly Moore stores have them, or you can buy them from my distributor HERE. Alternatively, you can use similar products, and high quality, highly pigmented acrylic paints (best purchased at an art supply store)

NOTE: If you are painting a surface where water where will be present, I recommend starting with two coats of an oil based primer, I like Zinnser. Follow this with a light brown standard paint, to make your “base color”.

TIP: You can paint over an oil based primer with water based paints and glazes, but not vice versa. Make sense?

  • Modern Masters Dead Flat Varnish, or Glidden Polycrylic in flat, or very low sheen
  • *Foam roller, or old paint brush
  • *High quality paint brush (I like Purdy Brand)
  • Glazing medium (cream)
  • *Tobacco Brown colorant (or warm wood acryclic paint color)
  • Aged Mahogany colorant (or similar acrylic paint color)
  • Van Dyke Brown or Coffee Bean Brown (this is a very dark brown color)
  • Cheese cloths, cut in half, and wadded up to look like a “pom pom”
  • Chip brushes, 2″, 3″, or 4″ (depending on the size of your piece)

1.Using the foam roller, apply varnish to a clean, lightly sanded surface. Using the high quality paint brush, lay off the varnish in the direction of the grain.

2.When 1st step is dry, prepare your glaze by making a mixture of TB colorant by a 1:6 ratio with glaze. Depending on how big of a piece you are glazing, start by making a small amount, you can always make more.

3. Using a chip brush, apply Tobacco Brown glaze all over surface, generally following the grain, (or if there is none, in the same direction). While this is still wet, apply your Aged Mahogany colorant straight out of the bottle. I like to pour some onto a paper plate and then use a chip brush to (dab it on). It should look like this when you are finished with this step.

4.Now Use your cheesecloth Pompom to pull the glaze in the direction of the grain. The pompom will absorb the excess glaze and softens the look. When your cheesecloth is loaded up with glaze, you can use it to apply glaze to the sides and details. Also, just sort of re”pompom” it to use a dryer section, and continue doing so until your cheese cloth is all used. Use your chip brush to pick up the excess glaze that may have settled in corners and grooves.

5. Prepare your next layer of glaze by using a mixture of the Van Dyke Brown (or very dark brown) in a 1:1 to ratio. This is a very strong mixture, if you want your wood to be lighter, use more glaze to colorant ratio. Apply Dark Brown glaze with a chip brush in the same way you did the first layer. If you are doing a cabinet door, start with the middle, and work your way to edges. Again, soften and “remove” excess glaze with a Cheesecloth “pompom”, following with a chip brush like you did in step #4.

***Optional step*** If you desire a richer, darker look, you can experiment by repeating the first step, just by adding another layer of the Tobacco Brown glaze, and then when dry, another layer of the Dark brown glaze.

6. You can decide to leave your finish as is, or you can take this optional step. When glaze is completely dry, use some of your dark brown colorant straight from the bottle. (Again, I like to pour it onto a paper plate). You can apply some to the edges, using a chip brush, and randomly throughout your piece to “darken” the wood. Use a rag to “blend” the colorant.

8. When you have achieved the desired look, seal with protectant of your choice. I have used wax or a clear coat, or nothing, depending on where my piece will be used. Both will work beautifully with this finish.

Tip: This is one of my favorite glazing “tricks”. You can try this on just about any surface. If you are painting a surface that is not easy to paint, i.e. laminate, etc., then it is a must that you begin with a high adhesive primer.

Here is the kitchen table I did, completely “glazed over”

Before:

Close up of corner:

One more note…..the chairs were black with the same fakey wood on the seats. I used my sprayer to paint out the chairs and the table base with Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black in an outdoor paint they carry called “Resilience”. I don’t usually use an exterior paint for indoor use, but this family has small children, entertains often, and I decided to go with something that would hold up to all kinds of wear and tear, and lots of wiping down!

The wonderful thing about this glaze treatment is the endless choices of wood tones you can come up with. Once you get comfortable with this method, you can begin experimenting with all different colors of glaze and colorants. Here are some other samples of work I have done using this technique:

This bathroom was honey colored Oak. The owner’s master bedroom was all Cherry Stained wood, I added more red tones using more Aged Mahogany to achieve this look:

This bathroom had all white laminate cupboards and did not match the English Country Style of the rest of the Decor. I used less red and dark tones to achieve this look:

This was a large, very light colored built in Oak cabinet. It didn’t suit the new owner’s tastes. Instead of stripping and staining the entire piece. (which would have been very long, laborious, and EXPENSIVE!), I used my glazed wood technique. The new owner’s were delighted. They had a rich, dark, built in, for a fraction of the cost and time it would have taken to strip and stain the entire piece.

Hopefully I inspired you to go create your own wood on some unsuspecting furniture! It is really fun to experiment with this technique. I would love to hear from you if you have more questions, or even better, see your results!

 What an awesome technique! Would you look at that gorgeous dark rich wood? ::insert whistle:: Thank you so much, Karen for sharing your tricks with us! Can’t wait to give this a try!!!

How to Make a Headboard Door Pediment

We repurposed an old headboard with just a little work to use it as a decorative door pediment. I shared this a couple of weeks ago at the DIY Club but wanted to share here as well, plus I’m so exhausted. My back and knees are reminding me that I’m not in my 20s anymore and renovating alone is hard work! While working on the apartment renovation for our daughter, our own projects at home have been put on hold but I did manage to squeeze in an easy DIY decorative accent project!

Materials:

  • Old headboard
  • Gorilla Wood Glue
  • Bessy ESZ Clamps (Rockler)
  • TransTint Dye (Rockler0
  • Vinyl stencil (created using Silhouette Cameo)
  • Craft paint and small brush or paint pen

Headboard Pediment Tutorial

I started with removing the legs from a broken headboard. The headboard was beautiful but in very poor condition.

I removed the warped veneer and pulled out staples that were trying to hold it in place to reveal the unfinished wood.

To repair the few cracks int he wood, I filled them with Gorilla Wood Glue. I love it’s water-based formula (easy clean up) and “tough” holding power. It only takes about 20-30 minutes of clamp time to move forward with the project and 24 hours to cure.

I love these awesome HUGE Bessy ESZ clamps!  They were super easy to use one-handed with their pistol style handles. No problems with increasing the grip and super easy to release when done.

After the glue was dry, I applied my vinyl stencil which wouldn’t stick so I traced the letters using a pencil.

Next I hand painted my words tracing the pencil marks with a paint pen and filling in with craft paint and let it dry.

Then, I lightly sanded the entire headboard (even the painted lettering) and gave it a coat of TransTint dye (dark mission brown) to age it.

Once everything was dry, we drilled pilot holes into the studs above the French doors in our family room and into the headboard. We secured it to the wall using drywall screws.

Pardon this mess! Room renovation on hold but in progress {actually it looks a lot messier than the photos at this moment – yikes!}…

Tada! After…

DIY repurposed headboard

I love how it fills the empty space above the French doors? What do you think?

You can see more plans for the family room here:

Operation Family Room

family room design

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ATTENTION! I am judging the Before/After contest at OPC’s Better Half this week and going through the links now. You have 4 weeks to enter and a couple of days before I get through 100+ links for me to see your DIY room makeover. ;)

Rustoleum Countertop Transformations

When I first saw the scratched, lightly burned and stained creamy colored laminate countertop in the rental, I knew I needed  to either board up the door and run for the hills or an affordable and easy DIY solution. Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit was a great way to rescue this kitchen.

kitchen before…

apartment kitchen before

Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit comes in 5 colors: Onyx, Charcoal, Java Stone, Desert Sand and Pebbled Ivory. Since the previous light color was stained, I decided to go with a darker color to avoid the same issue in the future. “Sleek and contemporary, Onyx is one of today’s most-sought after colors. Onyx’s black gleaming finish will modernize your kitchen and accent any decor. It perfectly complements kitchens with stark colors, white cabinets and stainless steel appliances.” The description sold me…an easy DIY way to modernize a kitchen?

A DIY option that doesn’t include removing the old and measuring for new, cutting new/etc.? Count me in! There’s a lot of DIY going on in this apartment and budget friendly, easy choices are a huge help!

I’m often asked about this DIY kit, so it was great to have the opportunity to give it a try for myself. Summary? Definitely worth the money and work to achieve the look of a brand new countertop!

My Rustoleum Countertop Transformations Experience

I read through the instructions. I also wrote down highlights when I watched the instructional DVD. The kit includes nearly everything but I did have to purchase 2 angled 2″ brushes, gloves, a 6″ microfiber roller and a 6″ foam roller (shown on the outside of the box). A shop vac is handy too.

I set up a work station close by with all of the materials on hand and ready to go.

countertop transformations prep

and prepped the area using plastic drop cloths and FrogTape. I did not remove the sink, however removing the sink will make the process much easier.

laminate countertop before

Tip: I taped around the sink. However, if you have a steady hand and an angled brush, I think it’s easier to wipe away basecoat when you get it on the sink. Tape will peel away some of the finish and require touch ups but those are super easy to do too! More on that below. Tape off wall near backsplash, cover cabinets, appliances (if near by) and floor with plastic drop cloths.

The first step is to sand the counters using the diamond embedded sanding block (provided in kit) to remove the shine from the laminate, sanding in a circular motion. It actually not only removed the glossy finish but the some of the stains as well. This is by far the hardest step – not too difficult, just time consuming and requires some muscle.

sanding laminate countertop

{as you can see above, I removed the loose laminate side strips because they were not secure and applied each step to the non-laminated sides}

Once the sanding was done, I cleaned the countertops with a damp cloth, removing all of the dust (several times) then let them dry.

Step 2 is applying the adhesive base coat. Have the materials ready to go including: adhesive base coat, wetting spray, paint tray and microfiber roller, 2″ angled brush and decorative color chips (in the spreader). Stir the adhesive base coat.

Rustoleum Countertop Transformations

Starting with the backsplash area, apply a heavy coat (like icing on a cake) of the adhesive base coat to the top and front of the backsplash and two inches of the countertop against the backsplash. Use the brush to apply the adhesive base coat to the sides and front of the countertop. Pour the adhesive base coat into the paint tray and roll onto the large flat area of the countertop. Make sure that none of the countertop shows through. Work quickly!

adhesive base coat

adhesive base coat around sink

Once every spot is covered, quickly move to the next steps. Spray the wetting agent and spread decorative color chips using the spreader according to instructions. Take handfuls and apply decorative color chips in hard to reach places, covering every area of adhesive base coat. There are plenty of decorative chips. Spare no expense!

applying decorative color chips

It does make quite a mess but don’t worry, they’re very easy to sweep up. I let this sit overnight then swept up the excess decorative color chips with a shop vac.

sweeping chips

It’s starting to look awesome!

laminate countertop transformation

Using the scraper provided, start removing build up of dried decorative chips along the coated surfaces (being careful not to dig or remove too much).

scraping decorative color chips

Next, using the sanding block in the kit, sand down the decorative color chips. And sand some more. And sand again.

sanding decorative color chips

Vacuum up the dust

vaccum

and compare the sanded countertop with the sample piece.

textured sample

Sand and vacuum again if needed.

sanding and vacuuming countertop

Clean with a damp cloth, making sure to get all of the dust removed and let dry. Score the FrogTape with a utility knife (we only had a razor on hand) and remove tape.

removing FrogTape

Touch ups: When I removed my FrogTape from around the sink, it did peel away some of the finish. Not to worry. Simply touch up with the adhesive base coat using a foam brush, (wipe away base coat if it gets onto the sink/etc.), apply decorative chips and wait four hours.

Rustoleum countertop touch up

Sweep up the chips. Sand. Clean.

Tip: Note that this process is messy and remember to over protect areas you don’t want involved. I have a little paint touch ups to do.

touch up needed

Again, make sure countertops are completely dust/dirt free and dry. {looking better already, isn’t it?}

cleaning countertop

On to the last step! Once the countertop has been sanded and cleaned, gather supplies and pour Part A of the protective coat with Part B and stir.

mixing Rustoleum countertop transformations

Apply the protective clear coat starting with the top and front of the backsplash and onto about 2 inches of the level countertop. Pour some of the protective coat into a paint tray and apply to the flat areas of the countertop using the foam roller. Don’t forget to apply protective coat to the sides also.

apply protective coat

Keep kids and pets out of the room until the protective coat dries to avoid fingerprints, pet hair, etc. in the finish.

The transformation is amazing. What a gorgeous finish and huge improvement!

rustoleum countertop transformations onyx

Let dry 48 hours for light use and 7 days to fully cure for normal use.

Thoughts: This do-it-yourself Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit is messy but easy to use, an affordable option and the result is gorgeous. Dried nice to a nice hard finish. The countertop feels durable and looks 100% better! We’re thrilled with the results! Thanks to Bri for her help with this project! Two people are definitely better than one!

Rustoleum Countertop Transformations before and after

What do you think? Have you tried the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations?

Rustoleum Countertop Transformations After - Onyx

Thinking about it? I hope sharing our experience helps! This YouTube video shares DIY tips.

Up next…oh yes I did! I painted those cabinets! I’ll share the process next week. But here’s a sneak peek…

DIY countertop and cabinets

You might also be interested in Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations…making painting cabinets easy (no sanding!):

pure white

 

I did receive product (Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit) in exchange for a review however experience, pictures and opinion are my own. For more information about Rustoleum Countertop Transformations including a how-to-guide, colors, virtual tool, photo gallery with before and after pictures and where to buy, visit Rustoleum Countertop Transformations

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience. 

FrogTape Blog Squad

How to Make a Bean Bag Toss Scoreboard

At mom’s pool on Sunday, you’ll find family members swimming, eating, laughing and a bean bag tournament in progress {also known as ‘cornhole’}.

cornhole

There are two teams tossing bean bags. It’s similar to playing horseshoes except that bean bags are tossed to a platform with a hole. Points are earned when the bean bag lands in the hole or on the platform. Teams can also knock their opponents bean bags in or out. Game ends when a team has reached 21. Up until now, score keeping was done mentally but for Father’s Day, I made a DIY bean bag toss scoreboard.

Bean Bag Toss Scoreboard Tutorial

Materials:

  • 1×3 wooden beam (my piece was about 6 ft. tall)
  • primer
  • 2 colors of paint (I used latex semi gloss in white and mustard acrylic craft paint)
  • paint marker (in black)
  • FrogTape (I used the yellow Delicate Surface FrogTape)
  • 2 small pieces of dowel rod (about 2 in. each) small enough to fit into the holes of:
  • 2 small wooden wheels
  • Gorilla Wood Glue
  • 2 thumb tacks
  • craft paint (I used red and blue)
  • Krylon Crystal Clear (Indoor/Outdoor protective clear coat – satin finish)

I cut my 1×3 to about 6 ft. and used the miter saw to make one end into a ‘point’ like a garden stake.

bean bag scoreboard

I applied a coat of primer and two top coats of paint (allow to dry between each coat).

Next, using a 2″ scrap piece of wood to measure, I drew pencil lines creating 22 separate ‘boxes’ (using the scrap piece means my boxes are approx. 2″, starting from the top and working my way towards the garden stake point. {shown measuring on unpainted wood…but…do this step after wood is painted base color}

marking bean bag toss scoreboard

Using FrogTape, I taped off every other “box”, starting with the bottom box so it would be painted with the accent color (yellow). I made sure I rubbed the edges (burnished) for a good seal on the edges of the tape. Since I had just recently painted the white base color, I used Delicate Surface FrogTape because it’s safe to use on freshly painted surfaces (but at least 24 hrs) since it’s has a more gentle adhesive.

Interesting FrogTape fact: FrogTape is the only tape treated with patented PaintBlock Technology. PaintBlock is a super-absorbent polymer which reacts with latex paint and instantly gels to form a micro-barrier that seals the edges of the tape, preventing paint bleed.

FrogTape Delicate Surface

Tape on the ‘outside” of the pencil lines for every other square to be painted an alternating accent color.

painting bean bag toss scoreboard

I gave each accent colored box 2 coats of paint and immediately removed the tape after the second coat.

removing FrogTape Delicate Surface on project

Once that was dry, I used a paint pen/marker to number “0″ to “21″ going from bottom to top in every box.

DIY bean bag toss scoreboard

While paint was drying in the steps listed above, I worked on the ‘point markers’. I painted (two coats) one dowel/one wooden wheel set red and the other blue. TIP: In hind site – use Gorilla Glue and insert the dowel rod into the wooden wheel and allow to dry before painting (painting them separate will make it harder to fit the dowel into the wheel hole).

Once glued, painted and dried, I added a push pin (coordinating color) into the dowel rod where in the center of the wooden wheel to give it a more finished game piece look.

making bean bag toss game pieces

Back to the scoreboard: Once my painted numbers were dry, we drilled holes (that fit the dowel rod) into the side of the numbered sections. Choose a bit that will go all the way through. When finished, I pushed a screwdriver into the holes and rolled it around a little to smooth out the drilled space.

Sand a little and touch up paint.

I gave the score board and score keeping pieces a couple of coats of Krylon’s Crystal Clear. Dries in 10 minutes and everything has a protective coat.

I also used a little wax on the end of each dowel rod so they would fit into the drilled holes for score keeping a little easier.

Now, bean bag score keeping is more accurate and no one has to ask “what is the score again?”

how to make a cornhole scoreboard

Does your family play this game at summer get-togethers? What do you think? Purchasing a scoreboard online ranged from $25 to $90! My DIY version was less than $20 and coordinates with the Steeler’s themed bean bag toss at my mom’s. Just in time for Labor Day picnics and a family reunion. :)

Note: We will add a piece of gutter spout into the ground for holding the scoreboard in place but it could also be pounded into the ground, attached to a bench, etc.

This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my experience. Need some FrogTape project inspiration? Check out the FrogTape blog squad with projects being updated/added frequently for more ideas!

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How to turn a coffee table into an ottoman ~ Inside Out Design

Brooke from Inside Out Design is sharing how to turn an old coffee table into a tufted ottoman. It takes a little work, but transforming an old coffee table with some foam and fabric can make add a beautiful element to your existing living room space. I do have an old coffee table hanging out in the basement and Brooke’s tutorial is an inspiration!

Brooke’s coffee table is actually pretty cute with a painted stencil design but she felt the height was wrong for her couch, wanted to add a beautiful designer fabric to her living room (sometimes throw pillows aren’t the answer) and having a comfy place to prop feet is always a bonus. I know I’m always propping my feet up onto a glass coffee table and it’s not ever comfortable. ::envisions of basement coffee table with a new look and coffee foot prop::

painted stenciled coffee table

Quick summary:

To adjust the height, Brooke and her husband cut (and painted/distressed) the existing lets and reattached them.

distressed coffee table legs

Next, they added a frame so that it’d look more like an ottoman and less like a coffee table. The new wooden frame will support the new upholstery and hides the drawer.

ottoman frame

A little math for spacing and a chalkline create a grid for drilling tufting holes…

ottoman tufting holes

They ordered pre-cut foam (awesome! see original post for details) and attached to the wooden frame using spray adhesive.
Add batting by stapling to the wood frame…
then fabric…
What a transformation! It looks good just like this…
But of course, tufting makes everything better. Brooke made up some buttons with the fabric and created some tufts (link to tutorial below). The final result is stunning and a beautiful addition to her living room!
tufted upholstered ottoman Isn’t it gorgeous? Repurposing the old coffee table was a genius idea! And what a beautiful home surrounding it!

You can get the full details at Inside Out Design:

Part 1 – Turning a coffee table into an upholstered ottoman

Part 2 – Upholstered ottoman tufting tips

Another coffee table turned upholstered ottoman tutorial HERE. DIY upholstered tufted ottoman tutorial

 

and more DIY coffee table ideas.

Tiffany & Co. spray painted steamer trunk

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Family Room – sneak peek {repurposed headboard to door pediment}

The family room makeover has been on hold while we’re renovating the apartment but I wanted to share a little repurposed headboard project I finished up a couple of weeks ago.

Using an old headboard {a gift from Amber – thanks, Amber!}, Gorilla Wood Glue, Bessy ESZ Clamps (Rockler), TransTint Dye, vinyl stencil (created using Silhouette Cameo) and craft paint, I gave an old headboad a new purpose.

Here’s a little of what’s going on in the family room:

family room design

{see more about operation family room here}

The headboard was in very poor condition, broken and falling apart. I removed the legs and repaired the main wooden part of the headboard and added a stencil.

Before…{pardon the mess, it’s a work in progress!}
So easy! The space above the family room door just needed something, ya know? {French door color is Benjamin Moore Pacific Ocean Blue with a dark glaze}.
Much better, don’t you think?
Happy Friday! Enjoy the weekend!
DIY Club Photobucket
Funky Junk's Sat Nite Special SouthernHospThriftyTreasures copy_thumb

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Thrifty Treasure Transformation – colorful candlesticks

I shared this over at the DIY Club a few weeks ago but wanted to share here too. When I saw this Martha Stewart image…I loved the coordinating colorful candles and candlesticks.

colorful candlesticks

So, I started collecting wooden candlesticks from thrift stores and yard sales…

 wooden candlesticks

I wanted a fun colorful accent to go with our family room plans: family room design

What I used:

  • Wooden candle sticks
  • Candles (color matching my Patio Paints)
  • Deco Art Patio Paint (dark eucalyptus green, waterfall, fuchsia, buttercup)
  • Deco Art Patio Paint reusable Home & Garden stick on stencils
  • dark glaze (TransTint Dye by Rockler)

How I did it:

1. I gave my wooden candlesticks a few coats of Patio Paint each. Because I didn’t sand the wood, I used a dry brush technique. I preferred an antiqued look. I let the candlesticks dry between coats.

2. I brushed on and wiped off my glaze (TransTint dye) to give it an old finish.

3. The Deco Art stencil was sticky (and reusable) making stenciling super easy:

 

Ta-da!

painted candlesticks

{fabric is waverly santa maria desert flower – I’ll be using it for my drapes}

Love them – fun colorful accent to add to our family room…if I can ever get back to working on the makeover!

DIY Club
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How to make an established/monogrammed sign {bridal shower gift}

I’ve always wanted to make an established sign as a gift and a recent bridal shower was the perfect occasion.

How to make an established/monogrammed sign.

Materials:

  • Wood 18 x 9 x 1
  • TransTint Dye (Dark Walnut or Dark Mission Brown)
  • Craft Paint (gray and white)
  • Stencil (I used a vinyl stencil I created with my Silhouette Cameo)
  • Spray Lacquer
  • Sawtooth picture hanger

Tutorial:

I sanded down a pretty piece of wood then died it with my favorite color of TransTint Dye from Rockler a long time ago as part of my participation with the DIY Club. I seriously love this product. A little goes a long way and I can control the color – just add water. I also love that I can let the unused portion sit on a shelf. Water evaporates and I can just add water to re-use the unused portion. I’ve used it on many projects and have so much left!

transtint dye

Using my Silhouette Cameo, I designed and cut out a monogram, border and last name vinyl stencil. {Be sure to measure the sign and create a border/design that fits within those measurements.}

Silhouette Cameo

I peeled off the letters and used the “negative” part of the vinyl as a stencil. Placing it straight was the hardest part. Holding it up to the light and cutting straight lines using the guide on the back of the vinyl was helpful.

Silhouette Cameo vinyl monogram

I pulled away the wax paper, applied the vinyl stencil and made sure it was all good and stuck by rubbing the design with a credit card.

DIY vinyl

Slowly peel away the backing…

DIY sign tutorial

Next I painted the border, monogram and “established 2012″ using gray acrylic craft paint. I gave it a few coats.

DIY painted sign

I’m impatient, so I let it dry a few minutes then peeled away the vinyl. Then I let it dry fully.

DIY monogram sign

I created another vinyl stencil of the last name and cut it out using my Silhouette Cameo. Once the first paint was dry, I followed the same steps to apply the last name stencil. I placed the name in the center of the sign and used white paint.

DIY gift sign

Let dry. Last step is to attach a hanger to the back {make sure the nails/screws aren’t bigger than the depth of the wooden sign!}. I also gave my sign a coat of spray satin matte lacquer.

sawtooth sign hanger

Ta-da! I personalized gift:

DIY established monogram sign

{So sorry about the low light/poor quality pictures! Ugh! I didn’t realize until pictures were uploaded after the gift was given.}

What do you think?

Wish me luck today. I’m heading to the apartment (enlisting the help of my 19-year-old nephew) to tackle my first attempt to sand hardwood floors!

Enjoy the weekend!

OH! It’s the LAST CHANCE TO ENTER THE BETTER HOMES & GARDENS “Color Guide” and  “New Cottage Style” decorating book giveaway. Need some inspiration? Stop over to enter to win!

BHG Decorating Book Giveaway

bhg.book.collage

Disclaimer: I created the above project using some supplies I’ve received in the past for previously sponsored projects. Opinion is my all mine based on my experience.

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Peacock Blue Painted/Glazed Table Tutorial

Hello! I am Amanda and I blog at mommy is coocoo.
~ My blog is all about fun! ~

mommy is coo coo

Whether you are laughing about the realities of marriage and motherhood or being inspired to make your everyday surroundings lovely, regardless of your budget.

I am especially honored to be doing a guest post for the DIY Show Off.  Roeshel was the first blogger to ever feature this crazy momma and we’ve been blogging friends ever since.
Today I’d like to share a simple glazing tutorial with you. You can see how I turned a $60 craigslist table into this peacock blue masterpiece.
 
I found a table on Craigslist (and Mr. coocoo went and purchased the table with his hard earned money, on his day off.)  I was inspired by several pretty round tables (see those here).
My favorite inspiration table was blue so, out came my peacock blue paint, glaze, and lacquer and my cheap table became the focal point of my family eating area.
How to glaze painted furniture coocoo momma style:
{Before I get started, I would like to say you can do it too! It’s not that difficult, I promise.}
    • I bought a gallon of peacock blue paint from Wal-Mart (cost about $13).
    • I lightly sanded the top of my table with my hand held sander.
    • (and then) I just started painting (see it’s really not that difficult). Paint the entire table and let all the paint dry.
  • Now it’s time to glaze. I bought glaze from Lowe’s or Home Depot (I can’t remember which one). If you aren’t sure what to do, go to the paint department find an employee and tell them you need some glaze. Viola! You will walk out (for about $25 bucks) with something like this.
  • Mix the glaze with whatever paint color you want to add to your already painted furniture. Does this seem scary? It’s not. I chose black paint but you could use whatever color you like.
  • I mixed equal parts glaze and black paint. If this is your first time to glaze don’t freak out, you may want to start out with more glaze and less paint. You can always add more paint to your glaze/paint mixture.
  • Make sure your table is clean (wipe all the dust off from when you sanded).
  • Start glazing! It’s just like regular painting now (clearly, you don’t need a new paint brush). I like to use long horizontal paint strokes. Don’t panic if you get too much paint in one spot! Keep your brush moving. You are going to love it!
  • After your first coat of glaze dries decide if you want to add more glaze (I did because I wanted my table to be a little bit darker. It’s all about preference).
  • Finally, I added this protective finish (bought at Wal-Mart) to the table (This step is a lot of work but it is worth it! Follow the instructions on the can).
The coocoo kitchen table! We love it!
I never had a round table growing up. Did you?

I really enjoy how close we are now when we are eating.  Since there is no chance I am going to be able to eat a meal without helping (at least) three other people, the round table makes it much easier for me to serve, cut food, wash hands and faces, and give Scary Mommy looks when the coocoo kids aren’t eating their food.
Thank you so much for allowing me to share today Roeshel!If you’d like to see more of my projects or meet the whole coocoo family head on over to mommy is coocoo.
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Dining Room Plate Wall

I love the look of plate walls – a great way to fill a wall with so many options to fit your own personal style.

Meet: Hilary from My So-Called Home.

dining room before

Hilary shares my issues with indecision. What to put on the walls? She finally realized it would be better to put something there and change her mind later on than to do nothing at all. And of course, lots of Pinterest browsing helped, specifically these two lovely rooms:

Then her idea became a reality. Now all she needed was a whole mess of random plates and she knew exactly where to get them– the same place she scored her awesome campaign dresser. This place has more dishes so many dishes (how dreamy!) Most of the dishes Hilary got were about 50¢ each.

Hilary washed and dried and numbered (masking tape) her plates.

Secret: One of her plates is not actually ceramic but this sweet little incredibly tarnished silver dish that took a couple coats of primer and white paint to fit in with the rest.

 

Hilary found adhesive cloth hook hangers in the “hooks and hangers” section at Lowe’s.

Hilary used paper plates and paper patterns to create a template.

Before:

And After!

 

 

Who knew that a few thrift store plates could create such a big fun impact?

Hilary is also happy to report that three moons have passed since these plates went up and they’re all holding strong.

I love Hilary’s collection of plates. I also love every other dining room detail. A beautiful appetizing dining area.

Do you have a plate wall?

I have a dining room plate wall too. Let me clean up in there and I’ll share an update in the near future. Hilary, thanks for sharing your beautiful dining room, inspiring plate wall and tips for a hanging! Pop over to see more budget friendly LOVELY DIY at My So Called Home.
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DIY Starfish Chandelier

When I first ‘e-met’ Debi from

Debi's Design Diary

and first saw her gorgeous starfish tutorial and adorable video,

starfish chandelier

I was hooked. I couldn’t resist checking out all of her cute videos and creative DIY ideas.

Today Debi shares a few tips for making this pretty blingy starfish chandelier. Here she is:

I wanted to create a light fixture that had all of the wow factor of a chandelier dripping with crystals but without the big price tag.
I used 36 white starfish and about 10 yards.
I have to say that every project I dream up has it’s challenges and this was no exception. 
Here are some important tips I discovered along the way:
Use a small dremel if you have one, it is much easier on the delicate sea stars and you will have more control when you get to the part where you need to drill the extra holes as the starfish are hanging on the chandelier.
Lay your starfish out in a mock set up to determine how many to use and how they will hang, I used a total of 36 starfish,( 12 strands of three). six of the stands had 3inch links of chain a at the top to attach to the metal ring and the other six 1.5 inch links. I did this to stagger the starfish so they would not bang into each other or overlap too much.
Keep in mind that the bottom starfish on the strand only needs one hole but the rest of them will need two or more.
E600 is the glue I used, although it  is messy and needs to be used in a well ventilated area it works well. You can find this glue at Walmart or Michaels.
of crystal chain and about 10 yards of rhinestone chain.
Ps. Materials (and this chandelier – just 1!) can be found in Debi’s Etsy Shop: Debi’s Design Diary.

Thanks, Debi! If you’re attempting this project {or even if you’re not}, check out her video tutorial for tips and to get a glimpse of the girl behind the blog. I love it!

See more inspiring ideas at Debi’s Design Diary.
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