We repurposed an old headboard with just a little work to use it as a decorative door pediment. I shared this a couple of weeks ago at the DIY Club but wanted to share here as well, plus I’m so exhausted. My back and knees are reminding me that I’m not in my 20s anymore and renovating alone is hard work! While working on the apartment renovation for our daughter, our own projects at home have been put on hold but I did manage to squeeze in an easy DIY decorative accent project!
I started with removing the legs from a broken headboard. The headboard was beautiful but in very poor condition.
I removed the warped veneer and pulled out staples that were trying to hold it in place to reveal the unfinished wood.
To repair the few cracks int he wood, I filled them with Gorilla Wood Glue. I love it’s water-based formula (easy clean up) and “tough” holding power. It only takes about 20-30 minutes of clamp time to move forward with the project and 24 hours to cure.
I love these awesome HUGE Bessy ESZ clamps! They were super easy to use one-handed with their pistol style handles. No problems with increasing the grip and super easy to release when done.
After the glue was dry, I applied my vinyl stencil which wouldn’t stick so I traced the letters using a pencil.
Next I hand painted my words tracing the pencil marks with a paint pen and filling in with craft paint and let it dry.
Then, I lightly sanded the entire headboard (even the painted lettering) and gave it a coat of TransTint dye (dark mission brown) to age it.
Once everything was dry, we drilled pilot holes into the studs above the French doors in our family room and into the headboard. We secured it to the wall using drywall screws.
Pardon this mess! Room renovation on hold but in progress {actually it looks a lot messier than the photos at this moment – yikes!}…
Tada! After…
I love how it fills the empty space above the French doors? What do you think?
ATTENTION! I am judging the Before/After contest at OPC’s Better Half this week and going through the links now. You have 4 weeks to enter and a couple of days before I get through 100+ links for me to see your DIY room makeover.
The Atmospheres tile collection by Daltile offers a variety of style, colors and size options to create your own unique designs with tile. So many possibilities! {shopping for tile}
We finally chose a tile, placed and order online and it was delivered to my door. Hurray! But wait…I learned something that changed our order.
Uh oh! {read on}
After receiving samples of the Daltile Cararra 12x12s {I loved the pattern, flow, marble look and finish!}, we ordered Daltile Cararra in the 10×14 size for our bathroom floor. Beautiful tile.
What I learned from the Home Depot tile specialist…
With tiling experts at every store, the Home Depot is empowering customers to take on both large and small scale tiling projects. Even when you think you might know everything, it’s a good idea to sketch out a plan so I met with Mike, the tile specialist at the Home Depot. Mike is a tiling expert and was super friendly and well, an expert at tiling. He answered my questions patiently and had so much information. We’ve tiled before but I did learn a some helpful tips. Everyone say “hi Mike!”
{Mike, the Home Depot tile specialist with me}
Mike went through each step in the tiling process and shared some super helpful tiling tips:
Demo of existing floor (for us it’s tongue and groove engineered planks). Our subfloor is solid and level so we’re good to go. If this isn’t the case, that would need to be addressed.
Installing cement board or hardi-backer. Either choice works. We’re choosing hardi-backer because cutting causes less dust and Mr. DIY prefers to work with hardi-backer. This gets screwed down over top of subfloors. Sized (depths) vary and depend on meeting up with the adjoining floor outside of the bathroom (so no one’s stubbing toes). We’re going with 1/4 inch.
Tile cutting and layout. Mike suggested working from the center of the floor in front of the doorway and working the pattern out towards the border of the room. That’s the area that will be seen most often. In our case, as you can see, a vanity partially blocks the door. So we’re going to work from the center of the “open” floor space or start in front of the tub and work our way back to where the new vanity and toilet will be replaced since that tile will not be seen. We do have a wet saw, which is the tool needed for cutting tile. And the glazed porcelain tiles we chose won’t be an issue with cutting (as the marble backsplash tiles were – see our tip on cutting/installing marble subway backsplash tile). It’s helpful to mark the back of tiles or stack them back up in order of layout so that you can work quickly with setting them in place permanently. We will cut, layout and space the entire space before moving onto the next step.
Types of mortar. Learning something new everyday! Mortar comes in light and dark colors. Mike recommends Versabond for our project. Mortar can be absorbed into natural stone tile and grout. We are using a glazed porcelain so there isn’t an issue with absorption, however will will be using a lighter grout and will go with the lighter mortar as well. Mortar gets spread using a notched trowel. Mortar must not dry before setting tiles in place.
Tile placement and spacing. Spread the mortar in sections, working as you go (not working yourself into a corner, but work starting from the further part from your exit – you’ll want to end at the door so that you can leave). Allow to dry 24 hours. We’ll be using the 3/16 spacers since we like a thin grout joint (place and remove as we continue working).
Grouting. Mike suggests using a sanded grout on floors for wear and tear. Materials needed: grout (mix if not using a pre-mixed), bucket of water, float and sponge.
Sealing. Natural stone needs to be sealed as well as grout. However, since we’re going with glazed porcelain, our tile doesn’t need to be sealed. Mike pointed out that ‘Grout Shield’ can be mixed with grout to eliminate an extra step of sealing.
Another very important thing that I learned from Mike, the Home Depot tile specialist? Floor tiles and wall tiles are different. Wall tiles are not recommended for floors (it’s okay the other way around – you can use floor tiles on a wall).
Tip: Look at the back of the tile!
Light backside = wall tile
Darker backside = floor tile
Floor tiles have been fired longer and are stronger for floors. Using a wall tile on a floor can mean cracking or breaking since it’s not as strong. And know what? Those 10×14 Daltile Cararra tiles we ordered were light on the back, meaning they were wall tiles. Not going to work for our floor. {exception: accent tiles can be used on a floor}
I’m so thankful that I met with Mike {thank you, Mike!}. He saved us some potential headaches down the road. So even when you’ve tiled before and are pretty sure you know what you’re doing, it’s always good to review the plan with an expert! I returned my wall tiles and chose Daltile Cararra 12x12s and our tutorial, befores and afters are coming soon!
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers (like me!) to participate in its Daltile program. As a part of the program, I received compensation in the form of a Home Depot gift card to participate in promoting the new Atmospheres Tile Collection by Daltile. Opinion and experiences are my own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social medial engagement recommendations. I am a DIY blogger and I approved this message.
Thanks to Bri for tagging along and taking the photos.
When I first saw the scratched, lightly burned and stained creamy colored laminate countertop in the rental, I knew I needed to either board up the door and run for the hills or an affordable and easy DIY solution. Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit was a great way to rescue this kitchen.
kitchen before…
Rustoleum’s Countertop Transformations kit comes in 5 colors: Onyx, Charcoal, Java Stone, Desert Sand and Pebbled Ivory. Since the previous light color was stained, I decided to go with a darker color to avoid the same issue in the future. “Sleek and contemporary, Onyx is one of today’s most-sought after colors. Onyx’s black gleaming finish will modernize your kitchen and accent any decor. It perfectly complements kitchens with stark colors, white cabinets and stainless steel appliances.” The description sold me…an easy DIY way to modernize a kitchen?
A DIY option that doesn’t include removing the old and measuring for new, cutting new/etc.? Count me in! There’s a lot of DIY going on in this apartment and budget friendly, easy choices are a huge help!
I’m often asked about this DIY kit, so it was great to have the opportunity to give it a try for myself. Summary? Definitely worth the money and work to achieve the look of a brand new countertop!
My Rustoleum Countertop Transformations Experience
I read through the instructions. I also wrote down highlights when I watched the instructional DVD. The kit includes nearly everything but I did have to purchase 2 angled 2″ brushes, gloves, a 6″ microfiber roller and a 6″ foam roller (shown on the outside of the box). A shop vac is handy too.
I set up a work station close by with all of the materials on hand and ready to go.
and prepped the area using plastic drop cloths and FrogTape. I did not remove the sink, however removing the sink will make the process much easier.
Tip: I taped around the sink. However, if you have a steady hand and an angled brush, I think it’s easier to wipe away basecoat when you get it on the sink. Tape will peel away some of the finish and require touch ups but those are super easy to do too! More on that below. Tape off wall near backsplash, cover cabinets, appliances (if near by) and floor with plastic drop cloths.
The first step is to sand the counters using the diamond embedded sanding block (provided in kit) to remove the shine from the laminate, sanding in a circular motion. It actually not only removed the glossy finish but the some of the stains as well. This is by far the hardest step – not too difficult, just time consuming and requires some muscle.
{as you can see above, I removed the loose laminate side strips because they were not secure and applied each step to the non-laminated sides}
Once the sanding was done, I cleaned the countertops with a damp cloth, removing all of the dust (several times) then let them dry.
Step 2 is applying the adhesive base coat. Have the materials ready to go including: adhesive base coat, wetting spray, paint tray and microfiber roller, 2″ angled brush and decorative color chips (in the spreader). Stir the adhesive base coat.
Starting with the backsplash area, apply a heavy coat (like icing on a cake) of the adhesive base coat to the top and front of the backsplash and two inches of the countertop against the backsplash. Use the brush to apply the adhesive base coat to the sides and front of the countertop. Pour the adhesive base coat into the paint tray and roll onto the large flat area of the countertop. Make sure that none of the countertop shows through. Work quickly!
Once every spot is covered, quickly move to the next steps. Spray the wetting agent and spread decorative color chips using the spreader according to instructions. Take handfuls and apply decorative color chips in hard to reach places, covering every area of adhesive base coat. There are plenty of decorative chips. Spare no expense!
It does make quite a mess but don’t worry, they’re very easy to sweep up. I let this sit overnight then swept up the excess decorative color chips with a shop vac.
It’s starting to look awesome!
Using the scraper provided, start removing build up of dried decorative chips along the coated surfaces (being careful not to dig or remove too much).
Next, using the sanding block in the kit, sand down the decorative color chips. And sand some more. And sand again.
Vacuum up the dust
and compare the sanded countertop with the sample piece.
Sand and vacuum again if needed.
Clean with a damp cloth, making sure to get all of the dust removed and let dry. Score the FrogTape with a utility knife (we only had a razor on hand) and remove tape.
Touch ups: When I removed my FrogTape from around the sink, it did peel away some of the finish. Not to worry. Simply touch up with the adhesive base coat using a foam brush, (wipe away base coat if it gets onto the sink/etc.), apply decorative chips and wait four hours.
Sweep up the chips. Sand. Clean.
Tip: Note that this process is messy and remember to over protect areas you don’t want involved. I have a little paint touch ups to do.
Again, make sure countertops are completely dust/dirt free and dry. {looking better already, isn’t it?}
On to the last step! Once the countertop has been sanded and cleaned, gather supplies and pour Part A of the protective coat with Part B and stir.
Apply the protective clear coat starting with the top and front of the backsplash and onto about 2 inches of the level countertop. Pour some of the protective coat into a paint tray and apply to the flat areas of the countertop using the foam roller. Don’t forget to apply protective coat to the sides also.
Keep kids and pets out of the room until the protective coat dries to avoid fingerprints, pet hair, etc. in the finish.
The transformation is amazing. What a gorgeous finish and huge improvement!
Let dry 48 hours for light use and 7 days to fully cure for normal use.
Thoughts: This do-it-yourself Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit is messy but easy to use, an affordable option and the result is gorgeous. Dried nice to a nice hard finish. The countertop feels durable and looks 100% better! We’re thrilled with the results! Thanks to Bri for her help with this project! Two people are definitely better than one!
What do you think? Have you tried the Rustoleum Countertop Transformations?
Thinking about it? I hope sharing our experience helps! This YouTube video shares DIY tips.
Up next…oh yes I did! I painted those cabinets! I’ll share the process next week. But here’s a sneak peek…
I did receive product (Rustoleum Countertop Transformations kit) in exchange for a review however experience, pictures and opinion are my own. For more information about Rustoleum Countertop Transformations including a how-to-guide, colors, virtual tool, photo gallery with before and after pictures and where to buy, visit Rustoleum Countertop Transformations.
This is a sponsored post brought to you by FrogTape. The opinions are completely my own based on my own experience.
We were recently asked if we’d like to participate in the Daltile Atmospheres Tile Collection campaign by The Home Depot. With an apartment renovation in progress, timing was perfect. We quickly replied with our acceptance and couldn’t wait to get started. Literally. We do have a tiling project in our plans at this very moment. The super tiny bathroom in the super tiny apartment we’re renovating is in desperate need of a new floor.
Actually it’s in desperate need of a lot more! There’s a need to gut the entire bathroom and start from scratch but due to a very small budget and time constraints, we’ve narrowed the projects down to
tiling the floor and installing baseboard trim
painting
re-caulking
new lighting
new medicine cabinet or mirror
new vanity, sink and faucets
and of course, budget friendly decorating
The current flooring is a Pergo-type flooring which is not ideal for a bathroom. {duh} There are a few warped planks. Time to remove it and install something much more bathroom-friendly.
{previous owner forgot their shampoo!}
We headed to The Home Depot: a one stop shop for all tiling needs, whether you’re an experienced DIYer (like Mr. DIY) or first time tiler (like me) to see what would work for this space. Here are a few options that we looked at…
Daltile Atmospheres Tile Collection
We headed to aisle 13 and “ooh’d and ahhh’d like kids in a toy store” at the awesome displays. We jumped right in and laid out designs right out on the floor. I promise we personally didn’t open any boxes – other people must need to touch and see tile in real life too. The Atmospheres Tile Collection by Daltile offers a variety of styles, colors and sizes to create unique designs…perfect! Endless possibilities!
Sandy Beach – porcelain tile that has a slate look
Pacific Sand and Briton Bone – glazed ceramic tiles with a natural stone look. I really enjoyed using both of these to create designs. I love the pattern on the left!
Daltile Designer White – a glazed ceramic tile inspired by the look of marble
A large pretty collection of accent tiles…
Stay tuned to see which tile in the Daltile Atmospheres Collection we choose, my meeting with a Home Depot tile specialist, how to tile a floor tutorial and {keeping my fingers crossed} an awesome bathroom transformation. Which one was your favorite? {I’ve chosen 2. One for the apartment bathroom and possibly one for my future laundry room makeover!} Affordable, stylish and easy to install, Daltile is my kind of product!
Tips for Tiling: http://diyshowoff.com/2012/08/21/tips-for-tiling-a-floor/
How to Tile: http://diyshowoff.com/2012/09/17/how-to-tile-a-bathroom-floor/
The Home Depot partnered with bloggers {like me!} to participate in its Daltile program. As part of the program, I received compensation from The Home Depot in the form of a gift card to participate in this campaign promoting the new Atmospheres Tile Collection by Daltile. They did not twist my arm to participate nor did they tell me what to sayabout the products used for the Daltile Program. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
Good day, DIY’ers! Today I’m excited to introduce you to Jeff from
Like most of us DIY’ers, Jeff started working on home improvement projects on their home and rental properties in order to save money. He shares his knowledge and experiences with the hopes of helping others realize they can save time, money and DIY. I love that he shares his bloopers as well…a great “don’t do what I did” approach to learning.
Recently, Jeff researched the best products and ways to refinish a wooden porch floor and is sharing that secret here today!
Materials for stripping old paint (optional):
Behr Stain & Finish Stripper
foam roller (One thing that makes reading enjoyable at Home Repair Tutor is that Jeff uses technical terms like “hot dog” roller! It throws you off for a minute while you giggle but you definitely know what he means!)
wire brush
tape/drop cloths to cover anything not being stripped (and to cover plants)
Materials for painting the porch:
5 gallon bucket
4 gallons of Restore paint (2 gallons will cover 100 square feet but you will need 2 coats)
paint stirrer
Restore paint roller kit that comes with a paint grid (some may say screen) for the 5 gallon bucket (Color shown below is Fieldstone)
4 inch paint brush (cheapest available)
extension pole for paint roller (optional)
paper towels
painter’s tape/drop cloths to cover parts not being painted or to prevent splashing
Tutorial:
How to strip a painted porch floor
Jeff started the process with stripping away the old paint in order to achieve an even finish by rolling on the Behr Stain and Finish Remover with a foam roller. He worked in 3-4 rows of floor boards then waited 5-10 minutes before etching the boards with a wire brush. After finishing about 5 square feet of wood, he carefully used a hose to spray off the excess paint and repeated this process until the entire porch was done and let it dry overnight. The next day, this is how it looked:
How to painting a porch floor
Pour about 1 gallon of Restore into the white 5 gallon bucket and stir with the wood stirrer to ensure an even consistency. Place the paint screen into the 5 gallon bucket then dip the Restore roller into the paint and move it back and forth on the grid to remove excess paint.The Restore paint roller covers are what provide the rough texture.
Jeff’s technique for painting with Restore consisted of rolling the paint onto the floor boards with the roller in one direction, moving from right to left. He did cut in first using a 4 inch paint brush and painted the quarter round trim and any other areas that butted against support beams, etc. Moving on, he found that painting 4 to 5 boards with the paint roller then smoothing them with the paint brush worked best. He overlapped the paint brush strokes by one half the width of the paint brush to ensure a consistent & smooth finish. You can see Jeff’s Restore Project video for a better visual explanation.
Jeff states that you can choose to leave the rough texture created by the Restore roller or smooth it out using the brush like he did. He chose the smoother finish over the concern that dirt and grime may get trapped in the textured surface.
The final feel of the Restore paint is grainy and it definitely did an awesome job of making the wood boards more even. There is absolutely no splintering poking through the two coats (recommended by the manufacturer and Jeff).
After one coat:
After letting the paint dry for 24 hours, apply a second coat.
After two coats of Restore paint…
Once again, here’s the before:
A freshly painted, slip resistant surface after:
Tips:
This does seal the spaces between the boards and rain water will puddle. Best used on porches with a slight downward pitch.
Remove painter’s tape as you finish sections. Otherwise, it may be permanently stuck if painted and allowed to dry.
Project cost: $150 (and lasting more than the usual two year period of other finished outdoor areas)
Time involved: Approximately 7 hours (*includes paint stripping time and applying two coats).
Pretty awesome, right? It reminds me of our brushed concrete patio. The Restore paint comes in a variety of colors and is a great alternative to staining. Love the texture. Now…if only I had a outdoor wooden area to paint, this would be my preference. With a stencil involved in those steps. haha!
~*~*~*~
Thanks to Jeff for sharing his helpful porch painting tutorial and Restore paint review! See more of his projects at Home Repair Tutor. (I spy some bathroom tiling tips that I’ve bookmarked for an upcoming project).
I have to tell you that I’m always excited to make new DIY friends around the world wide web. I recently learned that Jeff is local geographically to us. Woo hoo! Another Steeler fan (well, for Mr. DIY since I’m not really into football other than being in the same room while the game is on). But the best part?! If I hit a snag with the apartment renovation, guess who will be getting a call? Be careful when you say “If I was local, I’d totally be helping you!” You just never know who might live next door!
The family room makeover has been on hold while we’re renovating the apartment but I wanted to share a little repurposed headboard project I finished up a couple of weeks ago.
Using an old headboard {a gift from Amber – thanks, Amber!}, Gorilla Wood Glue, Bessy ESZ Clamps (Rockler), TransTint Dye, vinyl stencil (created using Silhouette Cameo) and craft paint, I gave an old headboad a new purpose.
Here’s a little of what’s going on in the family room:
The headboard was in very poor condition, broken and falling apart. I removed the legs and repaired the main wooden part of the headboard and added a stencil.
Before…{pardon the mess, it’s a work in progress!}
So easy! The space above the family room door just needed something, ya know? {French door color is Benjamin Moore Pacific Ocean Blue with a dark glaze}.
Good day, DIY’ers! I love beautiful furniture makeovers, don’t you? Today I want to introduce you to a new-to-me blog friend who shares how she removed old paint and refinished a vintage cabinet. Meet: Trisha from Veranellies.
The cabinet before was in sad shape, messy paint job and unloved…
Trisha removed the countertop and got started.
Tools:
heat gun
scraper (metal, plastic will melt)
Point the heat gun at the paint surface until the paint will begins to bubble. Once it bubbles, scrape with the grain of the wood (more like pushing the melted paint). This will take off the first layer. Repeat to get down to bare wood.
Remove the hardware and sand.
Next steps: Paint and add hardware.
{color: Valspar Icy Blue}
Ta-da! It’s gorgeous!
I really enjoyed reading through Trisha’s plans for her kitchen renovation – sounds like a very unique old house filled with character and look forward to seeing more. Want to meet Trisha and see more? Head over to Veranellies to say “hi”! Even check out her regularly scheduled posts:
and while you’re there, you can drool over her cute studio…
salvaged materials! Amazing. Guess what? She manipulates glass! See more here.
Thanks for sharing, Trisha!
Have you refinished a favorite piece of furniture lately?
It’s been a mega DIY couple of weeks here folks! Where I challenge myself to see just how much DIY I can squeeze into a tight deadline (6 wks.) in the apartment renovation. Sounds like work to most people I know but for me, I say “let the fun begin!”. This rental is my life sized mini-doll house! Here’s an update:
I rented an orbital sander and I enlisted the help from my 19 year old nephew, Kaleb. {muscles, people – I don’t have them!}
HOW TO SAND HARDWOOD FLOORS
{How we did it.}
Floors were cleaned.
Floors were sanded (24 grit) with the orbital sander. Thank goodness my nephew helped because I seriously doubt I could have carried that thing up the stairs and from the looks of it, once the power was turned on, that thing had a mind of it’s own and took off! I know my limitations. And orbital sander wrangling ain’t one of them. Paying a nephew was a wise choice. Much better for Kaleb to restrain the monster sander than me being spun around in circles and crashing through walls, gouging the floor as I go. (It really wasn’t that bad…I’m just little and wimpy but most people would control the orbital sander without difficulty.)
I swept up the dust.
Then he sanded again (60 grit).
Then swept.
Then sanded again (120 grit).
Then swept again!
I used my Dremel Multi-Max and a palm sander where needed in corners, under radiators and around the edges where floor met baseboards. My little muscles could handle those guys. I did the edging with the 3 levels of sandpaper.
{Please don’t mistake these legs for mine…they’re Kaleb’s!}
I really don’t know anything about the previous renter/owner. Perhaps their situation wasn’t so easy, but they definitely were not clean and did some damage.
So, floors are now sanded!
There’s a method to my out-of-order renovating madness. I sanded the floors first before painting the walls because I didn’t want to have to scrub the walls twice (1 – the grime before and 2 – after sanding due to the fine layer of saw dust after sanding floors). Next up is covering the floors and painting the ceiling, walls then trim because I don’t want to lose the weekend waiting for the floor stain to dry.
As you’re reading this, I’m probably at the rental DIY’ing! More to come!
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Oh! Hoping for better pictures in the near future. I always have trouble making what I’ve learned ‘stick’ and resort to shooting in auto but I sat in on the Photography session at the Haven Conference and Josh and Kevin really had a way with making it more interesting. I’m all signed up for Photography 101 to learn how to use my DSLR and to finally learn the skills to take better pictures…
I’m also giving their affiliate program a try and invite you to join me in learning!
Whether you are laughing about the realities of marriage and motherhood or being inspired to make your everyday surroundings lovely, regardless of your budget.
I am especially honored to be doing a guest post for the DIY Show Off. Roeshel was the first blogger to ever feature this crazy momma and we’ve been blogging friends ever since. Today I’d like to share a simple glazing tutorial with you. You can see how I turned a $60 craigslist table into this peacock blue masterpiece.
I found a table on Craigslist (and Mr. coocoo went and purchased the table with his hard earned money, on his day off.) I was inspired by several pretty round tables (see those here).
My favorite inspiration table was blue so, out came my peacock blue paint, glaze, and lacquer and my cheap table became the focal point of my family eating area.
How to glaze painted furniture coocoo momma style:
{Before I get started, I would like to say you can do it too! It’s not that difficult, I promise.}
I bought a gallon of peacock blue paint from Wal-Mart (cost about $13).
I lightly sanded the top of my table with my hand held sander.
(and then) I just started painting (see it’s really not that difficult). Paint the entire table and let all the paint dry.
Now it’s time to glaze. I bought glaze from Lowe’s or Home Depot (I can’t remember which one). If you aren’t sure what to do, go to the paint department find an employee and tell them you need some glaze. Viola! You will walk out (for about $25 bucks) with something like this.
Mix the glaze with whatever paint color you want to add to your already painted furniture. Does this seem scary? It’s not. I chose black paint but you could use whatever color you like.
I mixed equal parts glaze and black paint. If this is your first time to glaze don’t freak out, you may want to start out with more glaze and less paint. You can always add more paint to your glaze/paint mixture.
Make sure your table is clean (wipe all the dust off from when you sanded).
Start glazing! It’s just like regular painting now (clearly, you don’t need a new paint brush). I like to use long horizontal paint strokes. Don’t panic if you get too much paint in one spot! Keep your brush moving. You are going to love it!
After your first coat of glaze dries decide if you want to add more glaze (I did because I wanted my table to be a little bit darker. It’s all about preference).
Finally, I added this protective finish (bought at Wal-Mart) to the table (This step is a lot of work but it is worth it! Follow the instructions on the can).
The coocoo kitchen table! We love it!
I never had a round table growing up. Did you?
I really enjoy how close we are now when we are eating. Since there is no chance I am going to be able to eat a meal without helping (at least) three other people, the round table makes it much easier for me to serve, cut food, wash hands and faces, and give Scary Mommy looks when the coocoo kids aren’t eating their food.
Thank you so much for allowing me to share today Roeshel!If you’d like to see more of my projects or meet the whole coocoo family head on over to mommy is coocoo.
I’m sharing a small thrifty treasure makeover today at The DIY Club.
I used Deco Art Americana paint in Wedgewood Blue and Deep Midnight Blue + Deco Art’s new chalkboard medium (clear matte coat that transforms any painted surface into a chalkboard).
Old tins + Deco Art = fun new storage. See the “how to” at The DIY Club.
Looking for a few guest bloggers for the end of next week. Interested? You’re invited to ‘show off’! Shoot me an email for more details at thediyshowoff@gmail.com or submit a project for feature. I welcome and appreciate your help and look forward to introducing you to fellow DIY Show Off readers and friends.
Walls: Cream wallpaper with red and navy stripes Floors: Faux-wood laminate Vanity: Large, dark wood vanity with cream sink.
There was also a a soffit with a can downlight which hung over the sink.
DIY demo…
Down to the studs…
The reveal…
Love all of that luscious trim work, don’t you?
Floors: Brazillian Cherry hardwood from K&K Floors Paint: Ralph Lauren Pale Gray Sink and Toilet: Lowe’s {Kohler} Mirror and Lighting: Restoration Hardware
Say “hi” to Aimee and see more awesome details at Sixteen Fourteen – Powder Room Reveal.
I recently purchased this indoor/outdoor area rug from Joss & Main to use right inside our French doors in the kitchen. For double French doors, I like having large mat.
Join Joss & Main here {affiliate link: each time a friend joins through my link, I earn credit…so thank you} – exclusive deals on awesome decorating finds for members. When doing a Google search for this area rug, the best price I saw was $89. Joss & Main price: $49! Events change frequently but there are always great prices!
I love the pattern and colors but it was missing just a touch of red with the accents we’ve been adding…
I painted the microwave cart {dresser} and “Farmer’s Market” sign using Deco Art’s Americana acrylic craft paint “Tuscan Red”. Yes, I used acrylic craft paint on the dresser (it’s okay – it’s sealed and I just LOVE this shade of red). You didn’t think it was for crafts only, did you? Sometimes I’m such a rebel. ha!
With the same paint, I went over some of the sage green design in the area rug to give it just a little more color. Nothing major but it ties in a lot better…
Perfect!
Another fun way to add color to a door mat is with the Vecco welcome rug kit. What’s Vecco?
It is a kit for creating rugs and carpets inspired by you. With stencils,colorant sprays and sealants, you make custom designs that’ll tie any room together – you choose the design. You choose the color!
The old baseboards in the family room were 2 inches tall and lacked the character displayed in the rest of our home. The family room was a later addition to the house. After the bamboo floor was installed, we decided to go with a taller baseboard. I chose 6 x 1 inch pine.
Before…
I started to the left of the French doors, measured and cut my board to fit the space. I do not miter baseboards. When you see the finished job, I promise you no one is going to notice that the joints/corners are not mitered.
I moved along, placing my next un-cut 8 foot piece into place from the corner.
Moving along to my third piece, I butted it up against the far wall to where it meets the second un-cut piece placed and draw a line where the two boards meet. This is where I’ll cut.
So simple. I cut all of my pieces and ‘framed’ the room. {pardon the old hunter green furniture}
Starting with “A”, I label each board so I know the order they are to be placed around the room. I got up to “K” I think. You can mark the wall too, but just having the boards in order and knowing where you start works.
Next I hauled the boards to the basement and gave each piece of baseboard two coats of paint {Benjamin Moore Chantilly Lace in a semi-gloss finish) on three sides.
My Porter Cable nail gun/compressor makes installing baseboards super easy.
I just a nail every 14 inches near the bottom of the boards and a staggering nail near the top in between the bottom nails.
{bad hair day = hood for pics and if you misplace safety goggles, sunglasses are the next best thing}
Our walls are not plumb. There are gaps where the baseboards gap and don’t sit flush against the wall. But that’s okay.
Enter: DAP DynaFlex. DynaFlex is DAP’s most advanced indoor/outdoor premium latex sealant with technology that is both waterproof and paintable. It combines outstanding durability, adhesion and flexibility with easy tooling, paintability, and low odor, while also keeping insects (SPIDERS!) from entering through small gaps and cracks. It is mold and mildew resistant, making DynaFlex ideal for a wide variety of projects such as sealing around windows, doors, siding, trim, molding and baseboards.
I usually leave caulking to Mr. DIY but this time I did it myself. We’ve been really busy with real life things, so this is a task I kept putting off thinking it would be more difficult and take more time than it did. I was wrong! Caulking is the easiest DIY job I’ve ever done. And it took only about an hour.
Seriously the hardest part was learning how to load the caulk gun. Cut the caulk tube on an angle creating a small hole. And insert the tube into the gun.
Handle up means “on”. Handle down means off.
Turn the tip of the tube so the flat side of the angled cut will rest in the ‘crack’ where baseboard meets wall.
Turn handle up to “on” (work quickly with a full tube – it pushes itself out!) and push the metal tab to start placing a bead of caulk in where the baseboard meets the wall, move along. Push. Release. Push. to maintain a steady bead. I worked in 4 foot sections. (Tip: With a new tube, be QUICK with turning the gun off an on – it will continue to squeeze out when you aren’t looking!) Remember to turn handle to ‘off’ position when you set down the caulk. As the tube empties, it will require more gripping muscle.
I had a small dish of water, a small waste basket and lots of paper towels on hand.
Dip finger into water and smooth out the bead of caulk (paper towels or rags are necessary). If it gets onto something it shouldn’t, it’s okay. It wipes/washes right off.
It created a beautiful straight flat bead filling in the gap between the wall and baseboard.
At first I even lined the top of the baseboard and the wall where it meets the baseboard with Frog tape to create a straighter line.
But found that the extra step wasn’t really necessary. It might be helpful if you had a big contrast between baseboards and walls. But if I made a mess or an ‘oops’, DynaFlex was easy to wipe away/clean when wet.
before
then…{better but yikes!}
now…
Family room still in progress but these small details are important. DAP Dyna Flex is sandable and paintable! It’s tempting to end at this step because it looks good enough, but painting will help seal everything and give it a uniform look. Next up filling the nail holes, light sanding and paint touch up. What do you think? An easy enough project to do on my own.
Cost: approx. $100 for wood and caulk (less than two tubes) for an approx. 200 sq. foot room.
This post is sponsored by DAP but opinion, photos and tutorial are my own.
THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED. Winner has been contacted via email. Congratulations, Elizabeth G.!!!
It’s that time of the week! Time to share your latest do-it-yourself projects. I’m always so inspired by your creativity and hard work.
I’m still slowly making progress in the family room. Our living room and family room are joined by a set of interior French doors. Both rooms serve similar purposes. The living room is where Mr. DIY and I hang out and watch tv. The family room is where the kids hang out. So a little privacy between the two rooms is preferred.
Wallpaperforwindows.com has a huge selection of decorative etched, stained glass and privacy window films. I chose a light frost privacy film for the windows (just measure size and quantity in the order and they cut to size). It’s a translucent film that obscures visibility through the glass. Perfect for allowing the light to shine through but gives a little privacy between the rooms. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to install too!
First, I cleaned my windows. I spritz the glass with Windex, wipe with a dryer sheet and clean with a paper towel. I think I saw this trick on Pinterest and it works so well.
Once the window was dry, I gathered my supplies and washed my hands:
Optional: helper
Spray bottle with water and a few drops of dish soap (do not shake)
Window film
Squeegee (credit card type tool provided with my window film order)
Paper towels
Mist the glass with the soap/water solution.
Peel away the window film from backing. (I recommend pulling away from the long side first, not the shorter end to prevent crease/fold line.)
Place onto misted glass. I love that it’s vinyl and not “sticky” (It’s adhesive-free! No residue when removing in the future). Film can be easily moved around for perfect placement.
Once in place, mist the film with soap/water solution. Working from the middle, squeegee the film (this pushes the water and air bubbles out).
Simply dry with a paper towel.
It’s that easy.
See the difference?
Privacy!
Before BEFORE (before we moved in)
Before
After
(I can’t wait to show you looking into the living room from the family room…working on it!)
Wallpaperforwindows.com is giving away a $75 store credit to one lucky DIY Show Off winner! Giveaway starts today and ends Friday, Apr. 6. Open to US and Canadian residents only. I chose the light frost privacy film but there are more options:
Colored window tint (not just frost but a rainbow of color selections)
Frost
Leaded glass-look
Stained glass-look
Etched glass-look
Great option for decorating mirrors or privacy/decorative accent for doors, windows sidelights, etc.!
Let’s see what you’ve been up to!
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1. You must use the button above or text and link to this post to share the linky love. Here is the link: http://diyshowoff.com/category/other/diy-project-parade/.2. Your post must be recent, shared at one DIY Project Parade only (not continuously) and be DIY related.
3. Include your name or blog name and project title. Add your permalink (not your blog url, but your DIY project post url). Feel free to link a Past Post, just invite your readers in a current post with a quick note.
4. Or email your link to thediyshowoff@gmail.com and I will add it for you.
5. This blog linky party is for DIY projects only. Links not related to DIY will be deleted. Please share your link one week only.
6. NOW you can “like” the links! What a fun idea! Most liked links may be included in a post of DIY Project Parade highlights later in the week, featured on DIY Show Off Facebook or Pinterest.
7. Visit a few other links to make some friends and to collect some creative inspiration!
$75 CREDIT ~ WALLPAPER FOR WINDOWS GIVEAWAY
How to enter:
Leave a comment on this post sharing where you would use this product. Interior or exterior doors? Window? Mirror?
Leave a comment regarding your thoughts today.
Leave a comment about each way you’ve shared a link to this giveaway to help spread the word. (Twitter, FB, G+, Pinterest, blog)
When I’m getting ready to tackle a room makeover, I start with a list of things I want to accomplish, big and small. I like to put mine in a casual outline format in a notebook. No special order, just a collection of ideas, inspiration, design and plan.
As I was updating my home tour page, I noticed that I didn’t have a link to our half bathroom makeover. Why? Because I shared it on my very first blog and not here. So, time to show you the before and after transformation. One of my first projects. It evolves a little here and there.
First, let’s take a look at the before picture. Keep in mind that previous owners foreclosed on this old farmhouse. It sat neglected and we lived with this room stripped completely for over a year (that nasty carpet and fixtures were gone)! Thank goodness for my ability to see potential, otherwise this alone would have had us running the other direction!
Next up on the family room renovation is choosing the plan to paint, choosing paint colors and a list of supplies. My Colortopia was really helpful in putting together a color palette for our family room last week.
The Paint Project Wizard at MyColortopia is a great tool for planning. I started with the My Colortopia quiz and inspiration tool. Just “drag” color palette to the Project Folder. There are also some helpful MyColortopia blog tips along the way.
Hello! I’m Christina from No. 29 Design. Thank you so much to Roeshel for asking me to guest post. I’ve very honored since I’m still a newborn in blogland! I thought I’d share with you a project I’ve been working on and am happy to say it is done!
My boys closet got stripped of it doors a while back to make room for the Ikea Expedit I put inside. It has freed up the rest of the room to fit in two twin beds as well as plenty of play space. It stays organized and all those bins hold clothes and some toys. All in all it works great, except for the top. I can’t take the bar down which holds the clothes on either side. Seeing everything stored on the top shelf of the closet does not make me happy. I’d put more “stuff” but then I’d see that too, so I’m limiting my storage capability.
My Inspiration: With a kitchen remodel nearly done, I’ve been looking for an accent rug for in front of the kitchen sink and stove area. I haven’t been able to find something I like but one I did spy several painted foam mats on Pinterest
Project Inspiration
please pin this image directly from Sarah.Wandering.
It’s time for the DIY Project Parade and I can’t wait to see what’s been keeping you busy. Have a touch of spring fever? Easter is right around the corner and it’s not too soon to decorate. This week, when reviewing Valspar‘s new line of spray paint, I created a faux-chocolate centerpiece to welcome spring.
Looking for ideas to kick-start your next room redo? All the time, right?! At least that’s the case in this house. With a family room renovation next on our do-it-yourself list, it’s time to brainstorm and create a design plan. Walls are currently a boring builder white, 10+ years old and dingy. A blank slate!
My Colortopia has a fun quiz to get me started. My results were pretty spot on. I like soft colors and neutrals.
Take the quiz, let me know how accurate it is for you.
There’s more!
The My Colortopia tool gave me a selection of color palettes (one main color and two coordinating colors that I can use for trim or accents) to browse through, save, print, share and paint! It’s an awesome source for planning a room design!
Start by uploading an inspiration photo in the MyColortopia wizard. Don’t have a color inspiration photo? Browse the inspiration gallery for ideas and upload one from there. I chose a photo from my own files with colors I like.
If there is a specific color you are looking for, narrow in on a smaller area when using the selection tool to generate colors you wish to see. See how I shrunk the frame to fit blues and greens…
Once I clicked ‘show colors’, the magic starts. I selected teal lake and MyColortopia provided me with a custom color palette…
Click a color from the selection to reveal an inspired color palette:
The option is there to print, email or share the palette too!
There’s so much more information at My Colortopia to kick start inspiration for your next room makeover including a blog post full of ideas written by some of our favorite talented DIY bloggers. Check it out!
I have been sponsored by Glidden brand paint to write this post but the thoughts and opinions expressed are my own.
I’ve “known” Jena from Involving Color for quite awhile and I not only love her creativity and beautiful home, I love her site. She has some new features and really helpful tools so I asked her to share a little about it today. It’s a site you’re going to want to pin or bookmark for when you’re trying to choose a paint color. See paint colors in “real” rooms. Here’s Jena:
Hi, I’m Jena from Involving Color, and I’m so excited to be guest posting here on The DIY Show Off! I’ve been a long time reader of Roeshel’s blog, so when she asked me to come share a little about my site with you guys, I was beyond excited.
Involving Color is a blog all about paint color. I have hundreds (and growing!) reader submitted rooms organized in galleries by paint color and room type. I even have a section just for painted furniture. I recently added a lot of functionality with an improved search and image tags, which I’ll talk about below.
So we’re going to work from the center of the “open” floor space or start in front of the tub and work our way back to where the new vanity and toilet will be replaced since that tile will not be seen. We do have a wet saw, which is the tool needed for cutting tile. And the glazed porcelain tiles we chose won’t be an issue with cutting (as the marble backsplash tiles were – see our tip on 
A freshly painted, slip resistant surface after:
